1. Joshua Tackett
    07/20/2017 @ 8:08 pm

    Thanks for the reply on email concerning planting around Memphis TN. I’m still not sure where to post but for every one reading, I live in the south and July and august both avg high temps ~ 93. Here is the take home message for all who live in 90+ temps: HOW YOU PREP THE SEEDS WILL HAVE NO BEARING ON YOUR FINAL PRODUCT, because the plant just can’t handle the heat. If you find a way to make your plant live for 20 days instead of 15, yield is still 0. I do have a question. The response you gave me is by far on par with the majority of opinions that I have read, although not all. In fact I spoke with one person who lived 20 miles from here and he said he had no problem. He said that he would have plants come up near the trash or other places where seeds would end up unintentionally. To say his description sounded like he was speaking of an invasive weed would not be an exaggeration. As a biologist and chemist, I am left wondering what would account for testimonies that are on two different extremes pertaining to the care needed and the adaptability of the plant to thrive. He had no reason to lie, so that leaves if nothing else, the seeds. Is a seed a seed? Or are there factors that cause damage to the seed? Are there strains with genetic mutations or markers? How resilient are the seeds if the seeds are capable of being harmed?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      08/03/2017 @ 2:21 pm

      Seeds are sometimes irradiated, which could cause the Germination Rate to dip down slightly, but won’t effect your final outcome.
      Here’s where the confusion may be when it comes to your “20-mile friend”, in that, the plants he spoke of, if in fact were “P. Somniferum” (and not one of the 60+ other Genos out there), then it may have been that he was speaking of plants that had already past the seedling stage, and were almost mature.
      In which case, it’s perfectly normal, as I speak of in the Tutorials, the Plants can withstand Temps of up to 95º Degrees (F) or more once mature.
      It also sounds like his plants may have been protected by shade, since grown near structures that could have provided shade to the plant during the “peak Hours” of the day, which is another thing I suggest in my LATE BLOOMERS Tutorial for Warmer Climates.
      The reason why the seeds require such cool Temps, is because they are already pre-programmed to reproduce (just like all living things on earth). So, if they don’t think they will be able to grow to maturity, why would they even try?
      All their Genetical Programming comes from previous “Surviving” Generations, which most likely sprouted in ideal Temps around 40º to 70º (F), then experienced a rising in Temperature of, say 30º to 45º Degrees from the time they were planted (Spring), to the time they matured (Mid Summer).
      So if you try planting them when it’s 90º degrees, then they will assume the same (that you’re planting them in Spring), and they already know that once they’re mature enough to reproduce, they can’t survive in Temps 30º to 45º Degrees above 90º (135º F).
      So they give up.
      Now that doesnt mean it’s IMPOSSIBLE to “Trick” them (which I provide SOME methods in my LATE BLOOMERS Tutorial), but, like I always like to say: “Poppies are sensitive little Bitches”.
      MAKE SENSE??

      Good question.
      For Fall planting, at least for me in my area, I don’t notice any sprouts begin to pop up until the Rains return, and the Temps begin to drop down below 70º / 60º.
      Which is good, because you want to make sure you have time for Harvest, and Soil Nutrient replenishment before anything sprouts.
      TIP: Break up all your old, dried out Poppy Stems, leaves, etc. and mulch them back into the soil for nutrients. Also add Organic, Water-insolubles such as Bone & Feather Meal, Greensand, Seashells, etc. Poppies are NITROGEN DOMINANT throughout all growth Cycles. So an N-P-K of 6-3-4 should suffice.


  2. Krista D
    07/29/2017 @ 5:14 pm

    What are ALL of the ingredients I will need to start growing?(i.e. fertilizers, pesticides, nutrients, etc) If you could compile a comprehensive list of everything I will need, it would be extremely helpful. You have the most detailed, effective tutorial on the web so far. However, it could greatly benefit from a shopping list of sorts. As with any good recipe, one must properly obtain all of the necessary ingredients in order to be successful. Thanks


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      08/03/2017 @ 3:02 pm

      That would be a good idea. I might try to figure out a way to make something generic and include it on the FAQ Page.
      I’m assuming you DID get a chance to see our FULL 5-Part Tutorial? (which we had to cut into 5 parts due to the mere size of the data included)
      Especially our replies to the 130+ Comments on Part 1.
      Where we’ve covered all of your Inquiries multiple times over.
      But I get it.
      Who wants to dig through a bunch of content.
      My only hesitation would be that I only know what works for my area, but as far as nutrients, etc, I think I could come up with something.
      Good idea. Thanks for your input.
      I will most likely add it to our FAQ Page after I scrape through all User Comments for some of the most commonly asked material.
      If you want to “Follow” our Blog, you can be notified once I post it.
      Probably won’t be until after harvest when I have some extra time though.


  3. James Jambon
    07/31/2017 @ 6:43 pm

    Hi , ive tried this summer but nothing came up… My area has a top soil layer and sand underneath it. You recommend a npk of 6.3.3 but what pH level should i water with? And should i do an automatic watering system since im in field. I tough of putting promix earth since its the fluffiest earth i know, but i also tought of putting perlite so itll be easier for the roots to develop. What is the best for field size work?? I planted more than a million plants….


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      08/03/2017 @ 3:37 pm

      – Perlite is mostly only useful if growing in Pots, however, in the field, I personally use it ABOVE the soil- about an inch of it at the base of each plant surrounding the STem to prevent any Rot/Mold/Moiture issues.
      – Ph, nuetral is fine – they can thrive in Acidic or Alkaline.
      – What were the temps when you planted? I see you’re in Canada, but you want the Temps to be between 35º-65º (F) for germination up until the seedling stage.
      – You also need a solution to prevent birds from eating your seeds for the TWO WHOLE Weeks they have to eat them before seeds germinate (10 to 14 days) – and since Poppies are planted at the surface, you basically just fed the birds. I always say: NEVER under estimate the Bird. They will mock you.
      NEXT: Slugs. You won’t see them during the day. What prevention did you use against them?
      FOR ROOT Growth, try Greensand. Or something like a 6/3/4 (NPK).
      – In the field, you want to use a SOIL CONDITIONER to mix (till) into your present soil. BLACK GOLD sells it by the Cubic Yard. It’s mostly Peat Moss and worm castings. (is that what Promix is?? IDK)
      – FYI- I wouldn’t suggest using manure based additives (which I see you haven’t – nice)
      – You planted over a Million SEEDS?? or PLANTS?? HUGE Difference.
      – On average, you should expect about ONE Mature Plant per 100-1000 Seeds (after thinning). The reason for such a broad range, is due to all the variables (grower experience, seed viability, casting methods, etc)
      – Some mix seeds with SAND to spread while casting. I would use SALT instead (keeps slugs away, retains moisture, is light colored so you can see how thin your “MIX” is prior to casting).
      – Did you get a chance to see our FULL 5-Part Tutorial? (which we had to cut into 5 parts due to the mere size of the data included – Best Viewed on Desktop or Laptop)
      – There is also lots of info in our replies to the 130+ Comments on Part 1.
      – Ok, I think I gave enough FREE EDUCATION for today (and I don’t remember selling anyone “millions of seeds”).
      But still glad to help, but need to move on to help other Customers right now.


  4. donovanshooter
    02/26/2018 @ 7:00 pm

    I live in south Louisiana. Zone 9. Are there some variety’s that do better in warmer climates than others? If so, could you suggest a few?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      02/27/2018 @ 12:00 pm

      • No, not really. When it comes to Papaver Somniferum Poppies, they will all require the same conditions. (unless you plant the only 55-day, Quick Maturing, “Izmir Afghan Poppy”: aka: the Late Chinese Seeds – which aren’t the cheapest, but are superior).

      But even they prefer the same conditions as all other Somniferum Poppies:
      • COOL Temps, LOT’s of Light, Space, Nutrients (especially Nitrogen). As well as Protection of Seeds & Sprouts during Germination Period.
      – As explained in our MAIN TUTORIAL Here
      Also, see our Answers to the 150+ USER COMMENTS
      (MOBILE Version).
      • Although Poppies will sprout in almost any Climate above Freezing (assuming other conditions are provided), they (their seeds) prefer to be planted in Temps between Freezing, and 65ª-70ª Degrees (F)– But can withstand Temps up to 95ª and above, once Mature.
      Now, it’s important to note that, because their Genetics store this information, sometimes Poppies will Sprout, then sadly die within a few days (or weeks, depending on the rate Temperatures change in your area) after being planted.
      But, NOW is the TIME to PLANT!!
      • Even If Temps are getting warmer than 70ª-80ª Degrees (F) in your area, it’s NOT too late!!
      • We have created a TUTORIAL for WARM CLLIMATES and/or Late Bloomers HERE (MOBILE Version)
      • We don’t have Pics of our ICE Method, but you’ll see other User’s give positive feedback on their own adoption of the idea in the COMMENTS Section (bottom)


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