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Growing Papaver Somniferum Poppies

(Part 1 of 5):

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When, Where, and How to Grow Somniferum Poppies (1 of 5)

  • Week 1

    Preparation & Germination

      During Germination, & throughout their Seedling Stages, Temperatures MUST be between º33 and º65 Degrees (F) or º1-º18 Degrees (C).

      It can take up to 2 Weeks for germination. Make sure to follow our Tips in the Videos on how to Protect them from Birds & Slugs during those first few weeks.

      YES, they DO need LIGHT to Germinate and they HATE being Transplanted.

    But can withstand warmer Temps when Mature

    Seeds take roughly 2 weeks to Sprout. Alternatively, you can plant half your seeds in the Fall, and half in the Spring, but if you get a lot of snow in your area, they’ll die.

  • Week 2-3

    Planting Poppy Seeds

    Poppies CAN be very easy to grow, and can also grow almost anywhere in the world, and require very little maintenance (once they get going). Generally speaking, growing poppies can be done almost anywhere.

    HOW to plant, simply cast seeds on top of loose, moist soil. No need to bury them – but you can gently press them into the ground, or toss a very thin layer of soil on top. You can mix your Seeds with Sand to Spread them as you cast them, but SALT works best, as it retains Moisture, prevents clumping, AND deters Slugs from eating sprouts. 

    Papapver Somniferum Poppy Seedling Sprout
    1 to 2 Weeks

    • WHEN to plant will depend on which USDA Zone you are located in, but generally, seeds will sprout whenever Temps rise above Freezing (32, as Poppies prefer cool Temperatures during the Germination and Seedling stages. 
    • Poppy Seeds can be planted in either FALL, early SPRING, or BOTH (depending on how Mild your Winters are)

    WATERING: Just keep soil moist at all times during germination, but keep them Well-Ventilated (to avoid mold). Then, cut back as they mature to 2-4 x per week.

    Results of Planting in Fall will provide earlier, and much larger blooms the following Spring, whereas Planting in Spring will still result in a spectacular display of Blooms, but just in early Summer.







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  1. Behrad Emami
    12/16/2016 @ 3:12 pm

    I noticed in a YouTube thread that explained NOT to plant Papaver somniferum consecutively each year in the same location, unless they get re-fertilized. A 6-3-3 organic fertilizer was recommended. Is there a particular brand that is best? Is Down to Earth “Citrus Mix” a good choice, or perhaps a liquid fertilizer? Also, when should the fertilizer be applied to the soil (in advance, prior to surface sewing)? Any advice is appreciated. Take care, B

    Thanks and I look forward to your reply.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      12/17/2016 @ 10:38 am

      I actually use the Down to Earth” Citrus Mix (6-3-3) and work it into the Soil PRIOR to planting.
      And that was actually one of OUR Youtube Videos or one of our Articles on WikiHow.
      (since it’s rare to find anyone who knows about Poppies needing more Nitrogen then any other Nutrient).


    • thegreatappreciator
      01/08/2017 @ 3:04 pm

      Thanks man. Helps a ton. Look forward to placing an order soon.


  2. Chester Copperpot
    01/07/2017 @ 6:04 pm

    Hey there, so grateful for this info and blog. Im running two LED 400 w and a 600 watt HID (metal halide until they began to flower, then HPS). To my surprise, they are doing very well. Not very large mind you, but healthy and producing. Can you possibly elaborate on the faint brown ring at the pod base that supposedly signals harvest time? I have discovered that the crowns sticking up is not really a good indicator, because they actually stick straight up on persian whites as soon as the petals drop. Do you have any additional photos of the ring?


  3. thegreatappreciator
    01/08/2017 @ 10:29 am

    Wondering if you could direct me to as many photos of the faint brown ring that forms at the base of the pod when it is ripe?


  4. John Leaf
    01/08/2017 @ 8:04 pm

    I live in hot weather climate, temperature here is about 24 celcius , i would like to know how to germinate and grow them, im trying to germinate in the fridge, do you have some method?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      01/26/2017 @ 7:47 pm

      Yes, I have several Methods in our “LATE BLOOMERS” Tutorial HERE – None of which involve the indoors since you will need to bring them outdoors eventually, which will cause stunting.

      Be sure to read about my “ICE METHOD” (Unfortunately, I don’t have Pics of it since I live in a Cooler Climate). But there are several more solutions at that Tutorial.
      – Also be sure to read my Comment replies on that page


  5. thegreatappreciator
    01/12/2017 @ 7:14 pm

    Hello again, in your experience what alkaloid characteristics do papaver paeoniflorum have as compared to single petal types? Say for example, a Flemish Antique? I know the pod shape is very different from single-petal types. Thanks in advance


    • Chester Copperpot
      01/14/2017 @ 2:38 pm

      Also, if there was a plant with 7-8 small pods that haven’t swelled since the petals fell off. When the petals fell off the very first bloom, I cut the water. Do you think its SO dry that the pods couldnt swell and mature? Should I lighty water at that point? This is all hypothetical by the way.


      • OrganicalBotanicals
        01/26/2017 @ 8:42 pm

        You need to continue watering, but not lightly. Give it a good soaking once a week (or twice at the most)- But u need to reach the whole root system since that is where it begins. Go HERE for more info


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      01/26/2017 @ 8:37 pm

      There’s nothing about paeoniflorum that’s any more or less different than Somniferum. They are the same species. Just named different, and not ALL paeoniflorum’s are “Peony” (multi-petaled).
      It’s just a gardener’s term.
      Just as there are other flower Species that are called “Hens & Chicks”, or “Peony” for that matter.
      The pods are only shaped the way they are due to the weight of the additional petals.


  6. steve
    01/24/2017 @ 5:03 am

    i would like to know……
    are the ikkanshu seeds viable for germination
    or are they for consumption only?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      01/26/2017 @ 9:51 pm

      ALL our Seeds are VIABLE. How else would we grow them every year to resupply our Stock?
      That’s why we Publish Thousands of New Photos, Slideshows, and Videos each year (which only shows a small percentage of our Total Crops)


      • Nicholas
        02/06/2017 @ 1:09 am

        Hello, I read that Ikkanshu seeds are dark, blueish, not white, I was curious as to yours being white, is it a hybrid ? thanks, Nick


  7. ruuoots
    03/29/2017 @ 10:33 am

    Still playing the waiting game in the germination stage, a bit concerned about outside temperature.
    The forecast max temperature the other day was supposedly only 14 degrees C, but sitting a temp gauge near to my pots in the sun I had a reading of about 23 degrees C! You explain about germination occuring between 1 – 18 degrees C. Have some of my seeds been roasted already? Should I go by my local regional forecast or use my own measurements? If the latter then I better go and find me a set of baking sheets…and quick! 😉 It was only for one day though and the temperature today matches my reading of 14 degrees C, phew, it’s safe to go outside again lol. I also have some distance between the soil/peat pellet surface and rim of pots as advised for shading + gave them all extra misting that day. Would you say seeds prefer the cooler end of that 1-18 spectrum? I read here somewhere your response to cooling seeds via refrigeration being a myth, hopefully I’ve not caused a problem doing that. They were in at 6 degrees C for two weeks prior to planting.
    Also, how deep should the fertilized soil above the ‘perlite only’ layer be and will/could they grow to their maximum potential in pots vs being ground sown? I have a heavy clay soil so currently that is not an option, any advice on how to amend specifically for poppy cultivation? Thank you.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      04/05/2017 @ 6:57 pm

      One thing you should do when planting in Pots especially, is put a layer of Perlite on TOP of the soil (as soil is dark in color, so it will attract more heat to it).
      But the White Perlite will not only keep things cool, but will reflect more light onto your plant, AND will retain moisture. So it;s a Triple Whammy.
      I show this in our “Late Bloomers” Tutorial don’t I?
      – The refrigeration method isn’t going to ruin your seeds, it actually preserves them. I only said that I personally have never used that method.
      -The “Perlite ONLY Layer” is only there to hold your Soil in Place. It simply acts as a “Filler” to fill all the large gaps between the rocks so that when you Water your plants, they don’t sink.
      So just fill it to the top, minus a few inches for protection from “Things in the Sky”.
      Poppies can be planted in Clay soil too. It wouldn’t hurt to add some ‘Soil Amendment’, and perhaps some Greensand to loosen it up, but no, I’ve never seen a Poppy reach “Full Potential” in a Pot, as opposed to Direct Sowing.
      And they’re root systems are not that big either.


  8. Aaron B
    03/31/2017 @ 2:03 pm

    Some of my larger plants are starting to wither. It’s been very hot and I live in zone 8. I’ve been watering about 2-3 times a week. Can I water more since it’s so hot or what are other options to help my withering plants?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      04/05/2017 @ 7:13 pm

      How hot? They will only wither from Heat, if your temps are above ˚90 -˚95 degrees (F).
      No need to water them more than that, but when you DO water them, you need to make sure you give them a good soaking.
      But I have no idea whether you planted in Pots, in the ground. what kind of soil we’re working with, etc. So I can’t really give the best advice.
      But if you have any way to provide them with some Shade during the Mid-Day sun, than find a way. They don’t need a FULL Day’s worth of Sun, they can easily survive and thrive with just a few hours of Full sun each day.
      The only other thing I can think of would be Nutrients. They are Nitrogen Dominant in ALL Growth stages.
      So if you planted poppies in that same location in previous years, but didn’t replenish the soil, there’s your problem.

      But when Poppy leaves “Whither”, there ain’t no point of return. They gone (if there are still healthy leaves on the majority of it, there’s still a chance.)


  9. ruuoots
    04/02/2017 @ 6:11 pm

    Hello, further to my last comment I can confirm green shoots have appeared in all pots after 10 days! Despite the weather (high temps), on another day the display showed 26 degrees C, if my tool is accurate? I used Ice sheets on a few of the pots this second particularly hot time (as many as I could make) but seedlings emerged even from those without cover.
    I have labelled up 12 pots in all and am trying a number of variables on my first attempt. Just for the hell of it I’ve even tried to plant some in my thick clay soil (not expecting much to come of that after roots break through peat pellet) #brickwall ;). Size of pots, positioning, soils, watering/not watering (after initial saturation of growing media in each), with/without peat pellets, types of fertiliser (heard about tomato feed working well with poppies, found an organic one). Blood, fish & bone (sorry veg/vegans), seaweed and bat guano. Some layered, some worked into potting mix. So among that lot I will hopefully find a winner! lol. Spent an afternoon drilling small holes in plastic cups for maximum aeration (liking your idea on that). Just netting in the first days on some and others with porous garden fabric + small frame inside pot to lift fabric and allow more growing room, hoping that works well. Secured with tight fitting elastic band should keep all pests out.
    Not exactly sure how to avoid cross pollination so decided all pots this year would be sown with the Izmir Afghan seeds. I think your video shows this variety growing well in pots so fingers crossed.
    My main worry now is watering correctly. Some I will continue misting until established, some I will sit in a wheelbarrow to soak up water from below (don’t have soaker hoses available, this time) I could use 50 pots and not exhaust the all the permutations but should get a fairly good indication what works best with trial and error. If you would caution against any of this please let me know, thanks. 🙂


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      04/05/2017 @ 7:43 pm

      Awesome! If you could take any Photo Documentation, that would be of great use. If you have enough, and you feel up to it, I’ll give you your own “Guest Tutorial Page”. Where you can either submit your own Content for us to Put together and Publish for you (and by you).
      Or, I’ll give you Admin access (Limited) where you can write everything and compose it yourself from the backend.
      We don’t take any credit for it. Nor do we alter it (unless u want us to).
      We just enjoy seeing the stories that “Grow” from our Seeds.

      This invitation is always open to anyone who can document their experience and produce Content from it.


      • ruuoots
        04/08/2017 @ 6:33 am

        Hello, thank you for your replies and your offer for me to submit a tutorial page. I didn’t get an email but had ticked to be notified? Kept this page open to see your responses. Wish I’d taken more pictures now! Got a few but should have documented the mixes as they went into pots, oh well. Having said that I did write some notes that correspond to each numbered pot and only recently prepared the small ground plot. So I’ll keep a visual progress on it all from this point, seedlings are still very young so anything could happen yet, hopefully only good things (healthy growth) 🙂 Perhaps by the end of the life cycle there will be a worthy amount of info to share here.
        Been having some unseasonably hot weather again, more like summer for here in the UK! 20ºC+ (found the symbol lol) forecast today. More ice sheets at the ready!
        About the earth:
        I did churn up the clay rich soil pretty well removing large rocks along the way. Left the soil spread out on a large piece of tarpaulin to dry slighty then forked it about in my small trailer till it was a crumbly texture before tipping it back loose in the hole. Used up the rest of a big 100 ltr bag of perlite mixed in too so perhaps it is sufficiently prepared . Forgot to leave some back for the (better than Judge Dredd) Triple Whammy! lol All pots do have some perlite on the surface though.
        The soil in my pots (without naming the company) contains: 20% sphagnum peat moss, 35% garden peat, 10% high quality organic Worm-Humus , 30% perlite. Separately I mixed in organic fertilliser as you have explained. Fairly confident this should see them through with watering and possibly other liquid fertiliser sprays.
        What sort of soil composition do you have in your rows for the great results you achieve and do you replenish nutrients every season or less frequently? Thank you.


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          05/10/2017 @ 5:42 pm

          Sure! No problem. Ya, that invitation is open to anyone who is growing our Seeds, as long as there are at least some Photos and/or Video to go along with the Documentation.
          I thought maybe Pie Pans would make the Perfect Ice Sheets, but I’ve never had the need for them up here in the PNW. Nor have I the means to make them, as I only own a Mini-Fridge.
          I could use a Photo showing the “Ice Sheet method” for our “Late Bloomers” Post. If u would like to share a Photo of your Ice Sheets, perhaps on top of one of your Pots, that would be the missing piece to that Post, and I’d be glad to either Credit you as the Photographer, and/or issue you a Coupon for Store Credit (you would still hold 100% Rights to your Pic(s) though).
          Feel free to upload to any Public Image Host (Imgur, giphy, Flickr, Photobucket), and just paste the Image URL(s) in any Comment.
          But ya, the Soil mix you described sounds like your average Potting Mix, which is perfect.
          However, if u wish to loosen Clay, use a Soil Conditioner (aka: ‘Soil Amendment’), and supplement with ‘Greensand’ and ‘Perlite’.
          There’s a Brand called ‘Black Gold’ that sell Amendment, and ‘Good Earth’ sells ‘Greensand’- it’s a Fertilizer but is only part of the ‘K’ Spectrum (NPK).

          For my rows, in the past, I liked to have total control of the NPK Levels, so I’d find THREE Fertilizers, each only containing either Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potash.

          But now I just Re-Plenish with a Mix consisting of a 6-3-3 NPK Levels. I will also grind up all remaining Plant Parts at the end of each Season, and mix back into the soil and allow it to recycle back into the soil.

          But Seasonal Fertilizer replenishment is VITAL, since poppies use up so much nutrients.


  10. Bastien
    04/03/2017 @ 8:25 am

    Hey I have two different kind of organic poppy seed but when I asked they guy if they were washed he looked at me like I was an idiot and said I don’t I’ve never of unwashed poppies so I hope I got some good stuff anyways I want to send you pictures of what I got and let me know if I can grow them or not


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      04/29/2017 @ 5:37 pm

      ANY and ALL “Poppy Seeds” that are Sold at a Store, are in fact “Papaver Somniferum” Seeds. Whether their Viable or not, I can’t say. Nor is there any way of knowing the ‘Variety’ (flower color, pod type, genetics, etc.) of Poppy it is until it blooms.
      But most likely, it will be your Typical Commercial ‘Breadseed Poppy’ (which look just like Tasmanian Poppies).
      Which is why you see sellers all over Amazon and eBay selling them by the pound, and just calling them whatever sounds marketable (“Afghan Purple Tasmanian”) Most of the time, showing just a Photo of a Seed Pile, or Images Stolen off Google Images- these Seed “Re-Sellers”, have never grown a Single Poppy.


  11. Tim Lombardini
    04/13/2017 @ 4:11 pm

    Thank you to the others who also recently leave comments here about their growing experiences. I am new at it with these poppies, but have gardened a wide variety of plants for over twenty years having been raised on ranch here in central CA. Been trying to germinate some seeds and so grow me a few varieties of papaver somniferum for nearly a month with nary a single sprout yet. Have tried peat pots as well as directly sowing on ammended ‘loam’ soil, also some with salt on top to discourage bugs. Weather has been cool at night (40 F) to mild in day (70 F) I have given up trying the peat pots and am down to just a small patch of ground sowen a couple of weeks ago, keeping it moist in hopes of a miracle sprout. No bird problems, the only pests noticed are some earwigs that come out during the night and so I used an organic-type spray to try and defeat them. Fortunately a friend who has a single strain of papaver somniferum established in his yard gave me a few young ones to transplant. They are actually doing ok considering, everything I had read about it was understood to be that transplanting is a difficult thing to accomplish. Go figure.


  12. Lukas
    05/02/2017 @ 9:44 am

    Hi, I want to choose some potent/productive poppy strain, which will be ready in medium-long summer.
    I am living in central Europe, so summer is much shorter in comparision to for example Afghanistan – where some came from.
    So I am looking for something strong/big, but not very slow.


  13. TranscendingWonderland
    05/03/2017 @ 2:07 pm

    I’ve been feeling the need to fertilize my poppy sprouts,yet I am unemployed and cannot afford commercial fertilizers at the moment.. Do you think that poppies would benefit from a home-made fertilizer made from composted coffee grounds and water? It’s high in nitrogen but I’m not sure if the acidity would be good for the sprouts… Please let me know your thoughts on this, or if you have any other suggestions. Thank you SO much!!!


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/10/2017 @ 4:33 pm

      Don’t use Coffee grounds in heavy amounts, as the Acidity can kill you sprouts.
      But if mixed with other Compost, it’s ok, just as long as your compost has been completely decomposed.
      But most importantly, you need to Sterilize any “Home made” Compost before adding it, as Poppies are very susceptible to several mold and fungus strains.


      • TranscendingWonderland
        05/12/2017 @ 9:41 am

        Thank you so much for your advice! I ended up making a weak cup of coffee and diluted it in some water. I fed it to my plants two days ago and now there’s tons of new sprouts and a dozen of them are finally in the “cabbage stage”. I’m so happy!!:) Thank you for having such an insightful tutorial!


  14. Russ Lynde
    05/15/2017 @ 11:09 pm

    I haven’t had a successful poppy garden for years. My theory was to sew them anytime and sew a lot of them, no wonder they never came up. I remembered that years ago I would sew them on top of a late snow, or here more likely a late ice, and they grew like crazy. My question is actually geared more towards encounters with law enforcement, DEA, BNDD, or any of the other MANY agencies. Has anyone had to deal with any of these agencies? As I said before, my technique was to sew way too many in hopes some would survive, they didn’t. In the 70’s and 80’s, I would never have thought of, let alone worried about, ordering too many seeds. Since 9/11 everyone is at the very least a “person of interest”. I probably ordered 10oz of Papaver Somniferum seeds the past year. I’m wondering if I should expect a visit or am I being overly paranoid? They’re legal to grow here so long as the pods aren’t scratched. I’m only concerned about the number of seeds I ordered cause none of them germinated.( I’ll fix that problem this fall) I laugh at myself for being so paranoid but then I remember the things I’ve seen the past 20 yrs. Thanks, russ


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/16/2017 @ 6:47 pm

      The answers to all your questions are in another Post in our Blog. Please see our Poppy Laws Post (be sure to view on a Desktop/Laptop)
      We find Living Plants and Pods for sale at the market all the time.
      (Click the two links to each above for most recent pics as of THIS WEEK!!)

      Not only are they sold, but they are even Labeled “Papaver Somniferum”.

      You have nothing to worry about.
      Hope this helps


    • Mary Microgram
      07/24/2017 @ 11:56 pm

      While somniferum (opium) poppies are technically a controlled substance, nobody ever gets busted for growing them in their garden for ornamental purposes. It’s only a problem if you’re caught bleeding them or ingesting them. Plenty of old grannies grow poppies and it’s really not an issue. They have a ton of benign uses, such as wreath-making (dried pods), cooking (seeds) & simple ornamentation. They are a beautiful flower, after all.


  15. John Tarantino
    05/23/2017 @ 10:03 am

    Is it possible to grow poppies indoors. I move a lot for work and would like to travel with them as they are so beautiful.


  16. Bill
    05/24/2017 @ 4:58 pm

    I was considering buying a 300 pack. I’m really new at this. I’m wondering, can they be grown indoors? If so, do you have a tutorial on how to? Thanks for the help.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/24/2017 @ 9:37 pm

      Hi Bill, (and John, who also asks the same question) yes they CAN be grown indoors as several of our Users have been successful at.
      I don’t really have a separate tutorial since all the Temp, Light, Nutrient, and Water requirements would remain the same- and all other stuff in regards to “Pests” need not apply.
      I would suggest using LED Lights ONLY, since all others give off too much Radiant Heat.
      Their Flowering mechanism is triggered by “Heat” primarily.
      So I would allow their environment to become a bit warmer (75-85f) after about 2 solid months of growth.
      That should make them begin to Bolt.
      For Nutrients, I suggest an NPK Level of 6-3-5 as they are Nitrogen Lovers throughout all stages.
      I would welcome any Documentation you might record of your Indoor Grow, and offer you a Featured “Guest Post” Spot in the Blog if you wish.
      Keep notes. Take pics, and check in w/ us when you’re done.
      We’ll go from there. (this applies to u too, John, and all users- 1st come/1st serve)
      Glad to help w/ guidence along the way too. Just contact us at our Contact Page.


      • Bill
        01/13/2018 @ 12:36 pm

        I ordered the seeds today… I’m trying to find the nutrient mixture you recommended, but no luck. Can you recommend one that I can order from Walmart or Amazon? I’d really appreciate it. Thanks.


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          01/15/2018 @ 1:08 pm

          Hey Bill. It doesn’t need to match the exact numbers. Those NPK Numbers I gave (and in general) are just a set of Ratios.
          So a NPK of 6/3/4 just means
          6 Parts N
          3 Parts K….
          and so on.
          Doesn’t have to match exactly, and u may find something that works better for you.
          But that’s just what I personally use.


  17. Tracy Scarpello
    05/28/2017 @ 9:21 am

    I’m not sure this is the right place to ask but this is driving me nuts and I have found no info anywhere I have looked. I planted about 100 purple taz seeds last year. They grew beautifully to the cabbage stage and I was so excited to see shoots coming out. Unfortunately, the shoots were simply seeds.

    I figured I’d planted too late so this year, I planted in the fall. Same thing going. Beautiful cabbage stage, each plant throwing up seeds with no flower. How is this possible and is this something you could help me fix?


    • Tracy Scarpello
      06/04/2017 @ 4:40 pm

      Any information on my question ? I’d really appreciate it. Mdo you need a picture?


      • OrganicalBotanicals
        06/04/2017 @ 7:34 pm

        I apologize. I could have sworn that I answered your Question in great detail already, but it must have been lost.
        No need for a Photo, as I am fairly confident that the poppies you’re growing are NOT P. Somniferum.
        They sound more like Papaver nudicaule such as the ‘Champagne Bubbles’ variety.
        Somniferum Poppies NEVER grow in these Colors: ORANGE, PEACH, YELLOW, or BLUE (meaning BLUE blue, not Purple Blue)
        Where did you buy the seeds?
        Anyways, that’s why we sell them. Because is not all that easy to find Somniferum Seeds that are sold with a Full Image.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      06/04/2017 @ 7:42 pm

      Well we don’t sell “Purple Taz” Seeds since that is not a Proper name.
      What I notice many first time growers do, is they plant Seeds, but have a hard time isolating and identifying their Sprouts (as even as an experienced grower, it takes a trained eye).
      So I’ve heard of situations where a completely different plant (wild to the user’s area) would come up.
      When you say the word “Shoots”, what is a “Shoot”?
      Perhaps you should upload some Pics to Imgur and leave me a Link.
      I think I have some photos of sprouts that include a bunch of Native weeds, and one Poppy that I took. I will look for it and show you to see if you’ve got a Trained enough eye.
      Doesn’t sound like you’re letting the Poppy grow, rather something native.
      ALSO, see MY REPLY to this Comment in Section #2


  18. southofsanity36
    06/02/2017 @ 1:54 pm

    How long will the seeds stay viable for? If I dont plant them this season, will they be alright for next spring?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      06/04/2017 @ 4:04 pm

      If you store them at room temp in a dry, dark place, for several years.
      If stored in the refrigerator, add another 10 years, but don’t remove them until you’re ready to plant.
      If stored in the freezer, they will last indefinitely, but same rules of removal apply.


  19. erik.olinger
    08/09/2017 @ 11:03 pm

    Hello I have a question about late season growing in zone 9 usa. Temperatures here are 80 to 100 in the day and 65+ at night in summer. I followed the directions for growing in hot weather (I used a black shade netting and perlite and starter pots inside 1 gallon pots with regular store bought non crushed ice. After 2 weeks all somniferum have sprouted. My glabrum is 1.25 inch high, and the rest are between .5 to .75 inch high. I’m buying a fan fogging system for the greenhouse this stuff is in. How much longer do I have to ice them? It is mid August now and next frost is not till Dec. 1st. Thanks!


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      08/11/2017 @ 5:40 pm

      Yeah, you usually wanna be heading into warmer weather at the time of planting, but since we’re past Solstice, it looks like you’ll be “Over-Wintering” these.
      So they’ will get to cabbage stage and stay like that until days start getting progressively warmer and longer.
      That’s why you’re supposed to plant AFTER your last frost, not 6 months before your FIRST frost.
      I can’t really give honest advice here, as I’ve never attempted something this crazy.
      But the younger they are, the cooler they like it, so as they age, they can handle higher temps.
      But even a FULL Mature adult would FLOP OVER in an INSTANT in 100º Weather.
      Even just one day of it.
      May I ask you…..WHY??


      • erik.olinger
        08/11/2017 @ 7:49 pm

        I am going to be able to lower the daytime temperature to 85 or less if I keep them in the greenhouse. I can also move them outside because they are in starter pots. I have 4 months till frost and they are already successfully germinated. Can’t I give them a full growth cycle? And they going to be ready for pod seed harvest before winter? I tricked them into thinking it was early spring in a moderately cold zone, now can’t I give them the summer they need for 3 months? I have plenty of seeds to experiment and a long season. When should I transplant (in starter pots) and outside in rows or in the greenhouse where I can lower daytime temperature? Thanks a lot!


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          08/16/2017 @ 10:02 am

          85º is still too hot. If they’re just Sprouts, that’s about all they’ll be. You’ll see.
          But Hey, I’m not God. I could be wrong. I don’t a Visual of your Plants, and the setting you have them in.
          I would suggest positioning them in an area where they get the Morning Sun (then in shade from Mid-Day, until Dusk).
          So place them on the Eastern Side of your House (or any structure).
          Also, why are you using a Greenhouse? Wouldn’t that defeat & nullify all efforts to keep them cool?
          TRANSPLANT??? Who told you to put them in 1 Gallon Pots?? You want a SINGLE Poppy in a 5-Gallon Pot (MINIMUM).
          Didn’t you see the part about Transplanting in thr Tutorial?
          Is the top of the soil covered completely w/ Perlite?
          Sounds like they’ve got a 1 in 10 chance of making it.
          But I would be interested to know what happens.
          (also, you should scroll through the 5-Pages of the Q & A’s in these Comments


          • Erik
            08/23/2017 @ 9:54 am

            You’re right that they shouldn’t be in the greenhouse, but they are not going to be transplanted into 1 gallon pots. They are going to be in at least 5 gallon pots. What I was saying was that they are in a starter pot inside a 1 gallon pot so the heat shade doesn’t crush the seedlings and to manipulate the sun angles. They aren’t in soil yet. I can still move them outside at any time. Well let’s see what happens.


  20. darren eastham
    09/30/2017 @ 2:57 pm

    do you sell the harvesting tool the one with about 4 blades on it to score the seed heads if so can you tell me where to find it in here, I will purchase 1 of them at the same time I purchase some seeds. thanks Darren ( England ).


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/12/2017 @ 3:18 pm

      Darren, we do NOT Sell such Items, nor do we Condone the Use of such (as it clearly states in our TERMS (UNDER: “User Conduct”), as well as on our CONTACT Page (fine Print -bottom).
      But consider this the 1ST WARNING.


  21. KnowsNotWhatItMeans
    11/01/2017 @ 9:22 am

    what if you were to germinate the seeds and just leave them there let the nature do it’s thing how long do you think they could actually survive without any water if there was no rain


  22. uhlizza
    11/09/2017 @ 5:44 am

    I am using a tent for indoor advancement in the winter months so that I will have early beauty! Grow lights inside tent, so there is (after germination) a warm, humid climate inside the ‘tent’. It was a little slow going until I saw a tent and thought ‘aha”! I have build able plastic/wire shelving inside and a spray bottle at cabbage stage – bottom water ended up in the white mold stuff. Using water bottles with drilled holes for drainage of 8 – 10 inch in height. 1st mo. using peat growing tray was a waist, the germinated but the roots all were exposed app. 1 inch before leaves. Careful transplanting would have worked at this stage but I had so many in diff. containers at a healthy cabbage stage; I recycled the peat to build up mounds around.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      11/16/2017 @ 11:44 pm

      A TENT!! That’s a great Idea!! I wanna Move IN and Live inside.
      That would make a PERFECT Poppy Protector.
      Just be sure to ABSORB as MUCH moisture as you can.
      Use those Calcium Crytals in those little buckets for Homes. …holmes


  23. Nicholas
    01/16/2018 @ 4:21 pm

    PLEASE HELP !!! I have grown several Strains of Poppy but EVERY grow, without Fail, the main Stem / New center leaf growth begins to turn a purpley / dark greenish and the tips curl under, and the main stem seems to “die” just before Bolting phase. I still get lots of Side Tillers but no main stem growth! Please, what am I doing wrong ? Not enough Light ? Too much light ? Not enough water ? too much water ? Nutrient Deficiency / Abundance ? thanks for your help !


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      01/18/2018 @ 6:44 pm

      Like I have said SEVERAL times in this Blog, and probably just a few Comments ago on this VERY PAGE,

      I have never grown Indoor Poppies. Therefore, I cannot offer my true, honest advice.

      That’s why I talk about TEMPERATURE Ranges in this Tutorial, rather than the “Time of year”, etc (since we all live different places for us Outdoor growers).

      My best guess is their reaction has something to do with the fact they’re indoors. (hence my reasoning for not growing them indoors) because they’re Temperature to Light Ratio Plus Space Requirements, are just not worth it.

      Meaning, they need too much light, at VERY Cool Temps (which only LED Lights could solve, I would think).
      They hate to be crowded, and they like to be left alone. Plus I’ve never seen a Poppy do better, than planted directly in the Earth.
      So all these questions about Lights, and A/C units, are just gonna have to be things you learn on your own, but I am still glad to help whereever I can.

      But be sure to Document your Experience, and I’d be happy to have you as a Guest Post.


      • Nick
        01/19/2018 @ 1:44 am

        I have all of my grows documented in a Journal by the day as well as Pictures, going back to my first naive attempt at a complicated Hydroponic systen which only resulted in Damping off. My current grow is in a tent with a 315watt Ceramic Metal Halide which puts out WAY more light in the right spectrum for growth, as well as they stay cool compared to other HID lights. I can maintain tent temps of 64-70 degree. So I wouldnt think Temp is an issue, but I dont know how they grow outdoors either. They are in 5 gallon Air Pots (holes in the sides for root growth) and those pots are spaced about 6 inches apart, one poppy each, so I would think they have enough space. Im just wondering if Im keeping the temps too cool around the bolting time and the mainstem dies for some reason or if I have a Nitrogen deficiency, Everything I have read on them says not too use much N as they will be mainly leaves and not produce large blooms if they have too much N. You said in one comment that they love N in all stages. Perhaps ill try that next. I was planning to gain experience growing and write a Poppy cultuvation Book from my notes etc. lol.


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          01/26/2018 @ 6:57 pm

          Hi Nick, yes, most people don’t know this, but they DO prefer a Nitrogen Dominant Diet.
          This was something I didn’t even know until a few years I started, but the Poppy is mainly a Green-Growth plant, and in one of the studies in our Blog (SEEN HERE) talks about the two Most important Factors that effect the Poppies outcome is it’s Cultivar, and Nitrogen Levels (see Screenshot).
          – 5 Gallons per plant would be the Minimum, but just know that Pots create a different dynamic when it comes to Watering & Soil Temperature (obviously, watering more often since it drains faster, and doesn’t retain Water & Temps like the Earth does).
          So, I would buy some Water Soluble Nitrogen (organically, I use ‘Down to Earth’ Blood Meal or Guano, then mix it with your water when watering them.
          That should give them a nice boost.
          Also, see THIS POST


          • Nicholas
            01/27/2018 @ 2:51 pm

            AWESOME !! I am grateful for your knowledge, I also look forward to that guest post invite soon as I get my books in order. I just sowed your Lauren’s Grape, and I have about 13 of your strains as well and Im just cycling through them all. I added Chicken Manure and Blood Meal to the soils of these grows. We will see how that works out. Thanks Again ! I Look forward to someday getting up to Washington and visiting your Botanical Gardens, I think that would be amazing ! as long as you allow such.


            • OrganicalBotanicals
              01/28/2018 @ 8:09 pm

              Cool. But I also advise AGAINST Manure, as it makes soild too thick.
              Be sure to read our other Tutorials.
              And read the Comments.


  24. James J
    04/06/2018 @ 7:44 am

    Hello, i would like to grow a 200,000 square feet area but it is only sand (the soil has about a foot or two of top soil).. should i put earth mixed with nitrogen in it? Because guano is illegal where i live since last year…with what should i enrich the soil? Last year I’ve tried without success, my land is in full sun (a field in the open) . I thought of digging and go to a center where they analyze your soil and make the mix you need, i thought of a 10-3-6 or something like that , do you think they’ll thrive in this environment? Thanks, been a fan since 5+ years. But only had results in Promix™ once….


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      04/06/2018 @ 9:52 am

      So are you saying there is 1′ to 2′ Feet of Topsoil ABOVE the SAND? If so, you should be fine, as the Roots of a Matured Poppy Plant only penetrate about a foot at the MOST.
      And if there’s Sand below that, even better- since it will drain better.
      When casting Seed throughout a large area, you must find ways to protect the seeds for their 2-week long Germination period, where Birds have a special ability to destroy before they sprout (at first, they come looking for Worms whenever the Soil is disturbed- but Poppy seed Proteins and Fatty Acids are a Bonus).
      In large areas, you can use Flash Tape to scare them, but I’ve had a lot of success laying down Burlap (potato sack material).
      They sell it by the roll, 3′ feet wide. Which works perfect for a single Row.
      Then lay it flat over your Seeds. Which will not only protect them from birds, but also from being washed away. Burlap also helps to retain moisture during germination.
      The sprouts with then pop up between the threads.
      As far as Nitroen goes, there are plenty of other sources for Organic Nitrogen, such as Blood Meal (which is all Water Soluble Nitrogen).
      Mix your seeds with SALT while casting to spread them out (most people suggest SAND, but SALT offers additional function against slugs, and helps retain moisture).
      Hope this helps.


      • Zen Zation
        04/09/2018 @ 10:41 am

        Yes thanks a lot.
        Last year i planted by spreading and putting some underneath ground (like 5mm maximum depth) but came out that grass grew over and nothing came out from the poppy seeds. .. should i put a membrane ? If yes should i put perlite+earth mix on top of a membrane? 2nd question, since im in open field with sunshine all day, the soil gets thirsty very fast more than once a day, is it a problem for the seeds (as it can get really hot during summer) or i just put water when i notice it dries? Because as of now temperatures are not possible since there’s snow outside (-5 degrees celceus ) but it’ll change fast like may is a temperature change for us here. The first time it worked (couple years ago) i planted them in june (around the 10th) and it gave mini pods around 25th July (but I didn’t buy my seeds here back then). But it wasn’t in the field…my aunt said she planted some back in the days in the field but she passed away so i can’t know how to maintain the field so it’ll go well.. thanks for everything you do.


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          04/12/2018 @ 11:47 am

          Hi Zen, actually, you can plant the seeds with snow still on the ground. In fact, they will germinate BETTER if you Cast your Seeds on Top of the Snow.
          But a membrane? I would take Steps, such as laying Burlap on TOP of the Seeds (as I explained in Reply to James J’s, Comment JUST prior to this one actually- just scroll up/down one – or CLICK) over them after Casting them (add Salt to spread instead of Sand)
          Then, around the Base of each plant (or on top of the Burlap, if u can afford it), add a thin Layer of Perlite (about 1/4″-1/2″ inch).
          Since Perlite is White, it will not only reflect Light back onto the Plant, but will help Retain the Moisture in the Soil SIGNIFICANTLY – Especially with the Burlap & Salt (which also Protect Seeds from Birds, and Sprouts from Slugs).
          When Watering, you can also use Ice.
          (also, THIS TUTORIAL might help you)


  25. Hamster Food
    05/28/2018 @ 7:53 pm

    Hmm is anyone else experiencing problems with the images on this blog loading?
    I’m trying to figure out if its a problem
    on my end or if it’s the blog. Any feedback
    would be greatly appreciated.


  26. Ragidyman
    05/30/2018 @ 7:35 am

    Hi. I’m new to gardening. I took a shot and think I weeded all my poppy and saved last year’s sunflowers. Ugh. So now I’m 2 weeks from summer,

    1,) Is it to late to try again?
    2,) Should I wait till September?

    So basically we have a successful garden with no poppies, yet! I’d love any advise you can give, were currently in NJ, but plan to start our homestead in AZ in about 18 months.

    PS, I have some left over seeds in the freezer, hoping that the cold will allow germination in summer, pointless?

    Pss, I was about to order but I’ll probably wait to hear back first, . Feel free to send any good links, I find so much conflicted info.

    Thx, Volha n Mike


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      06/09/2018 @ 7:51 am

      Ok, don’t be too hard on yourself. It happens to a lot of people. In fact, so many people have this same challenge, that I created a Post in our BLOG:
      Common Weeds Often Confused w/ Somniferum Poppy Sprouts
      Be sure to scroll to the Bottom (preferably using a Desktop/Laptop), and make use of our ‘Split Image Slider (to compare Before & After Thinning Photos)
      To Answer your Questions:
      1.) Too LATE? Yes, depending on your Climate, planting now will most likely just Sprout, then Die soon after. So I’d wait until Temps drop to to their Preferred Germination “Temp Zone” (35º-65ªF). You can Plant in Fall or Spring, depending on how Severe your Winters are (resulting in Earlier/Later Blooms the Following Spring)
      2.) Yes. Or, if you’ll be planting them in AZ, I would definitely “Over-Winter” them by Planting in Fall. They will remain in a “Cabbage Stage” until after December 21st – then begin Flowering just as soon as Temps rise up enough to make them Bolt.


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