TUTORIAL:

Growing Papaver Somniferum Poppies

(Part 1 of 5):



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When, Where, and How to Grow Somniferum Poppies (1 of 5)


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  • Week 1

    Preparation & Germination

      During Germination, & throughout their Seedling Stages, Temperatures MUST be between º33 and º65 Degrees (F) or º1-º18 Degrees (C).

      It can take up to 2 Weeks for germination. Make sure to follow our Tips in the Videos on how to Protect them from Birds & Slugs during those first few weeks.

      YES, they DO need LIGHT to Germinate and they HATE being Transplanted.

    But can withstand warmer Temps when Mature

    Seeds take roughly 2 weeks to Sprout. Alternatively, you can plant half your seeds in the Fall, and half in the Spring, but if you get a lot of snow in your area, they’ll die.

  • Week 2-3

    Planting Poppy Seeds

    Poppies CAN be very easy to grow, and can also grow almost anywhere in the world, and require very little maintenance (once they get going). Generally speaking, growing poppies can be done almost anywhere.

    HOW to plant, simply cast seeds on top of loose, moist soil. No need to bury them – but you can gently press them into the ground, or toss a very thin layer of soil on top. You can mix your Seeds with Sand to Spread them as you cast them, but SALT works best, as it retains Moisture, prevents clumping, AND deters Slugs from eating sprouts. 

    Papapver Somniferum Poppy Seedling Sprout
    1 to 2 Weeks

    • WHEN to plant will depend on which USDA Zone you are located in, but generally, seeds will sprout whenever Temps rise above Freezing (32, as Poppies prefer cool Temperatures during the Germination and Seedling stages. 
    • Poppy Seeds can be planted in either FALL, early SPRING, or BOTH (depending on how Mild your Winters are)

    WATERING: Just keep soil moist at all times during germination, but keep them Well-Ventilated (to avoid mold). Then, cut back as they mature to 2-4 x per week.

    Results of Planting in Fall will provide earlier, and much larger blooms the following Spring, whereas Planting in Spring will still result in a spectacular display of Blooms, but just in early Summer.

BELOW, I WILL REPLY TO ANY QUESTIONS YOU HAVE ABOUT GROWING 

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199 Comments

  1. deej13
    04/13/2016 @ 9:37 am

    I sowed some poppies a few weeks ago and this morning I discovered small pastel yellow egg-shaped things dotted with white spots growing on the edge of the bed just behind my seedlings. I’ve researched it and it doesn’t sound like any common mold I’ve read about or something an insect may have left behind. I’m very new at this, I just need to know if this is harmful to the seedlings or I should just leave it be. Have you heard about these?

  2. HulGil
    05/13/2016 @ 1:06 pm

    Hello

    Fantastic site on growing poppies you have here.
    I have about two dozen Peshawar White poppies growing that I planted exactly one month ago. I’m eager to see how they fare.
    I have them on a gentle slope facing southeast to get the morning sun…they get shade at about 2:30-3 p.m. They’re doing well so far. Zone 7, eastern U.S.
    Can you provide any additional information about Peshawar White poppies? (Reliable information about them seems hard to come by.)
    These are described as non GMO and 75 days to flower. They are not the same as the Elka Whites from eastern Europe are they?
    Regarding poppy genetic variation and interbreeding, would you recommend raising only one strain year after year, or a variety of somniferum strains and letting them freely interbreed? I wish to select the best plants for the hardiness zone where I live.
    Thanks.

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/14/2016 @ 6:31 am

      Nice Username!! LOL – The so called “Elka” is simply the first RECORDED Genetic history in regards to the ‘White Seeded’ Variety of the Somniferum Poppy. The one thing that is scientific fact about the white seeded varieties, are that they hold a higher oil content than the grey/blue varieties.
      Which makes me question why they aren’t used more often for Culinary purposes, since they offer a lightly sweeter taste than their blue brothers.
      In fact, I’ve never seen them on ANY Spice rack for that matter.
      I’ve even had people try to tell me on youtube that there’s no such thing as “White Opium Poppy Seeds”.
      There is also the ‘Album’ Variety- which are also white (or off-white) in Color.
      I believe the Afghan Peshawar Poppy Seeds are also the Album var.
      The only GMO Poppy Seeds out there (besides the ‘Norman’ Strain, which was NEVER released to the Public) that I’ve heard of is, the ‘Izmir Afghan Galania GMO Poppy Seed’ which we have been breeding since 2006 (and are also of the ‘Album’ Variety).
      You can use different methods to avoid cross-breeding. Such as planting them in Staggered stages (about 3 weeks apart) per Variety.
      You can also use clothespins on the Petals (which can be difficult), or you can build Screenboxes and place them over the entire plant (during bloom stage only) to keep bees out.
      Thee ONLY way they will “Cross” is by the ‘Bee’.
      I guess the human can cause them to cross pollinate too if they touch multiple Poppy Stamens/Pods.
      Otherwise, each flower will simply ‘self-pollinate’ a copy of themselves.
      Remember that RED is Dominant in the Poppy world. So if you were to let a mixed field of poppies continue to ‘Cross’ year after year, eventually, they’d all end up Red (or have Red in them).
      2nd dominant is the Blues (which are actually purple). But ‘Purple’ is actually not a proper ‘Poppy Somniferum’ term.
      (just in case u happen to see someone trying to sell ‘Purple Tasmanian Somniferum Seeds’, you’ll know they are very inexperienced- I’d avoid’em)
      -OrgBot

  3. HulGil
    05/15/2016 @ 12:44 pm

    Thanks for the reply, OrgBot.
    I had a couple of other questions regarding the Giganteum strain.
    Were they bred for increased seed production and are their alkaloid contents comparable to other strains grown for opium production?
    Do other strains occasionally produce large pods due to genetic variation?
    How many seeds are produced on average per pod of Giganteum? How many average per pod of non giant strains?
    Thanks.

  4. Mike01100
    06/12/2016 @ 1:30 pm

    Hello
    Je vie en France merci pour se site mes pavot somnifère pouce mais sont tous petit ils sont 10 dans un seul pots moyen je pense qu il ont pas assez de place je vais ressayer sa avec vos conseil
    Merci l Amérique

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      06/21/2016 @ 8:06 am

      Soyez sûr de voir notre tutoriel AUTRES Page de plantation dans Warmer waether ou dans les pots . Aussi, vous verrez une photo d’une seule plante que nous avions avec plus de 75 Blooms et cosses . Toujours bon de laisser beaucoup de place . Merci!
      -OrgBot

      • Mike01100
        06/23/2016 @ 4:39 am

        Bonjour
        Je vais vous envoyer une photo.pouvez vous me dire quelle variété c est .
        Merci

        • OrganicalBotanicals
          06/23/2016 @ 5:56 pm

          Pour envoyer une photo , s’il vous plaît le télécharger sur notre page ” ID usine ” – vous verrez un bouton qui dit ” Choisissez Fichier ” puis sélectionnez la photo à partir de votre ordinateur et cliquez sur «Envoyer» .
          Merci!!
          -OrgBot

          • Mike01100
            06/26/2016 @ 5:59 am

            Ok j ai envoyer 2 photos pouvez vous me dire quelle variété de pavot et si il devrez pouvoir être plus gros.merci

  5. mastershake
    06/20/2016 @ 2:19 pm

    Ok so Im a new poppy grower, I started some danish flag, Tasmanian purple, and Gigantium(not sure on spelling) in april and they germinated fine. I started them off in small pots under a cfl and transplanted them to 1gal plastic pots. Im unsure what to do at this point, they are inside under HID light on a 12/12 schedule and they are larger now very leafy and range from 6″ leaves and 6″ tall down to 3″ at the smallest. Can I put them outside? Will they start flowering? Its June 19th now. Im in the SF bay area Ca. Im unsure what to expect because I got a late start, I dont know what makes poppies go into flower? Please any advice on what to do would be greatly appreciated!!!

    • mastershake
      06/20/2016 @ 2:27 pm

      Ok so Im a new poppy grower, I started some danish flag, Tasmanian purple, and Gigantium(not sure on spelling) in april and they germinated fine. I started them off in small pots under a cfl and transplanted them to 1gal plastic pots. Im unsure what to do at this point, they are inside under HID light on a 12/12 schedule and they are larger now very leafy and range from 6″ leaves and 6″ tall down to 3″ at the smallest. Can I put them outside? Will they start flowering? Its June 19th now. Im in the SF bay area Ca. Im unsure what to expect because I got a late start, I dont know what makes poppies go into flower? Please any advice on what to do would be greatly appreciated!!!

      Just realized today is the longest day of the year and its when pre bloom is to begin. My poppies seem way too small for this stage, as I said the largest ones are about 6″tall with 6″ leaves. I think the way I started them lead to a slow growth. So Im still unsure what to do with them at this point. Anyway thanks for reading!

      • OrganicalBotanicals
        06/21/2016 @ 7:58 am

        That Timeline isn’t strict to the date, and Varies in each area. As long as your temps aren’t pushing 95(f)+ or more each day, then put them outside.
        I have Poppies of all Sizes on our Farm. Some which have finished blooming. Some that are about to bloom, some are not. Size doesn’t have a thing to do with them Blooming. They can bloom at ONE INCH. I’ve also had 7′ Footers blooming.
        Depends on several variables (especially what kind of childhood they had – and the temps it was when they were first born.

        • mastershake
          06/21/2016 @ 5:41 pm

          Thanks for the reply…. Ok that puts my mind at ease…. I was a little concerned that the poppies were like Cannabis where if you mess with the photo period putting it into flower and then reversing, it can have really bad effects. Any way it sounds like I should be fine with my little guys and I can place them outside. It has been hot out so Ill watch out for heat waves and move them inside where it is cooler. I know Poppies don’t like to be transplanted but I’m wondering if I should move them into different pots/soil. I used a pretty mulchy potting soil and wanted to give them a perlite heavy mix, but at this point I’m not sure if that would do more harm than good? Like I said they are about 6″ and very leafy looking healthy

          • OrganicalBotanicals
            06/23/2016 @ 5:44 pm

            I’ve had success transplanting them at 6″. But it’s a 50/50 chance. So only take the risk if you know you can afford it.
            -OrgBot

  6. auralharmony
    06/27/2016 @ 1:12 pm

    Hi,
    Actually found your site by accident, very informative…I am a baker and a gardener. I purchase poppy seeds in 25 pound boxes for baking, the seeds left on the counter I throw outside for the birds, well this spring I ended up with 9 large poopy plants and from what I see on Google image search they are Tasmanian white /purple. The other day I was weed whacking and hit one, the milky stuff came out orange colored, I always thought the sap was white. Long story short I looked it up and found something about a Norman poppy. I wanted to use these seeds even a little amount for my baking but now I am concerned that they are the Thebaine version, as a gardener I know that GM seeds are never released by large companies to the public so I am thinking that some poppies just have darker sap than others, what do you think? I can’t imagine the seeds I purchase in bulk would come from a possible deadly plant especially since I get these unwashed.

    thank you!
    Don

    P.S. I looked at interest at your ishmar red/white poppy seeds, if I purchased now are they still viable next spring?

    P.S. I saw your ishmar red/white poppies, if I buy seeds now

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      06/29/2016 @ 2:39 pm

      So you must have come across that popular Article where they Compare the SAP Color of a Norman, and a Regular Taz Strain, and saw that the Thebaine Alkaloid comes out Tinted with Orange.
      So what does that have to do with baking their Seeds?
      Unless you plan on putting the SAP into your Batter, there shouldn’t be any Concern.
      In fact, 95% of all Commercial Seed you buy in Bulk is of the Tasmanian Variety. Perhaps for consistency, but I imagine, although they’re mostly grown for Manufacturing Synthetic Pain Meds, that their Seeds aren’t just thrown away.
      I mean, they must be sold somewhere right?
      Nevertheless, one would have to invest a year to grow them if they wanna find out.
      But regardless, the seeds aren’t poison to bake with – and if you’re worried about residue, then wash them off before adding them to any recipe.
      ALL Somniferum Poppies are considered “Poison” and/or “Deadly”. – Norman or not.
      That’s because they contain Alkaloids that Directly Effect the Human Body’s CNS, alter brain signals, and hinder the Control of our bodies.
      Compared to the main Two Dominant Alkaloids (you know which ones), Thebaine has little to no effect unless it’s Synthesized.
      So I’d be more worried about the first two alkaloids, which are also considered “Poisons” unless or until they’re Prescribed otherwise.

      To answer your question about whether our seeds will be Viable for next Spring.
      Why wouldn’t they be?
      We grow them every year.
      How else would the plant have evolved for thousands of years??
      They would have gone Extinct long ago if they didn’t last from one Season to the Next.
      Hope this helps,
      -OrgBot

    • Poppyhead
      07/04/2016 @ 2:35 pm

      I am curious as to what the best fertilization protocol is for the Azmir Afghan GMO strain is? I presently have them growing in composted clay/sandy type soil that drains very well. The climate is dry year round with humidity normally around 30-40 percent in the rocky mountain region.
      Watering is almost a daily must as the soil dries out daily as the temperatures have been in the 80-90s. I dont water log them but do give them a good soaking in the morning.
      I started them out with fox farm big bloom which is a non burning seabird bat guano liquid fertilizer.
      When the cabbage growth started I started using tiger bloom a 2-8-4 with increased phosphorous and a small amount of nitrogen to start the green growth going.
      Beginning this week as they are really starting to blow I will switch to grow big 6-4-4.
      Is this enough nitrogen? Should it be increased to like a 12-6-6 at pre-bloom time or back to 2-8-4. All are liquid fertilizer and they are responding really well. I dilute in out in a 2 gallon watering jug and feed them every other day or so. The climate is very similar to afghanistan. Hot and fairly dry. A few plants stunted with yellow edges on the leaves. What is that? Had a very high germination rate and way more seedlings than I could use. No refrigeration. Just wintered them in a desk drawer. What is the best way to keep them until planting?
      Is it preferable to leave the entire plant in the ground until dry for seeds? Thanks.

      • OrganicalBotanicals
        07/21/2016 @ 2:01 pm

        Many people are unaware of this, but the Somniferum Poppy is a NITROGEN Dominant Species and requires more Nitrogen during ALL Growth Stages than any other of the Major Three (N-P-K).
        That does’t mean they don’t also need Phosphorous and Potash, but Nitrogen should always be highest.
        What I like to do is buy Organic Fertilizer ONLY (Good Earth).
        Then prior to planting, I mix my solid with something like a 6-3-3 ratio of NON-water Solubles. (Bone/Feather Meal, Seashells, Greensand, etc)
        Also, if you plant poppies in the same place every year, make sure you always re-fertilize the Soil before planting again.
        I talk about this everywhere in this Tutorial.
        I’m surprised you haven’t caught it.
        Remember there are TWO types of Bat Guano. One rich in Nitrogen, and one rich in Phosphorousdepending on whether they were Nocturnal Bats, or Night Sleepers.
        Also, what stage are your plants at? You say it’s been in the 80’s & 90’s?
        Poppies might sprout in those temps, but they surely won’t continue into the Cabbage Stage (or any other stage for that matter).
        I mean, you could try. But I’d call it a miracle if you got them to go into a Cabbage Stage with those kinda Temps.
        Temps MUSt be much cooler.
        You try my “ICE METHOD” using Pots as explained in our “Late Bloomers” Tutorial–> HERE
        -OrgBot

  7. John Tilley
    08/05/2016 @ 8:37 pm

    Thank you for the effort you put into this project. Very informative. Can’t wait to grow my beautiful poppy garden.

  8. falseflags
    08/07/2016 @ 10:00 am

    Thank you so much for creating, and maintaining, such a great site! It is a brilliant resource and I only wish that I had stumbled upon your site before planting Papaver somniferum seeds for the first time this year. It is certainly a learning experience trying to grow these plants for the first time and I hope my next attempt will be more successful. I am in U.S. Zone 8 and I think most of the 30 seedlings I started out with were killed by the intense heat. I’m growing in pots and trying to protect the three plants that I have left. Growth seems quite slow and all the plants seem to be going through the same cycle of the lower leaves turning brown and dying while the rest of the plant looks green, healthy and growing upright. This is the second time this has happened so far and I just wanted to ask if this is a normal stage of poppy growth.

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/13/2016 @ 3:58 pm

      Well, browning Lowers leaves IS perfectly normal, but not until the Flowering Stage as seen in THIS PIC
      But if it’s happening prior to this, it’s because there’s not enough Nitrogen. Read the Comment I just answered above this one.
      Also, ALWAYS add more Nutrients to Soil wherever you plant poppies 2 years in a row. They deplete the soil’s nutrients each time.
      Thanks!

  9. J. Jambon
    09/10/2016 @ 7:54 pm

    Hello,

    I really like your videos and explanation but is there some ressources to know what does the plant need in terms of nutrient (N-P-K) because I’ve tried with some 10-52-10, 20-20-20 and stuff like those but no really good success.. the poppies are always small, juicy, but small. and I cant start them inside with ”jiffy’s” so I plant them right in ”promix”, is this good for them or is there a better soil type?

    thanks a lot -a huge fan of your work

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/13/2016 @ 3:49 pm

      Hi, for your Nutrients, you’re going to need something with a High NITROGEN Ratio for ALL Stages of Growth.
      That’s one thing many people don’t know is that Poppies require more Nitrogen even during Flowering Stages.
      I always use Organic, NON Water-Soluble Nutrients for a steady release of Nutrients throughout.
      Usually a 10-6-6 or something similar.
      Or, buy some Bone or Feather meal (10-0-0), Greensand (0-0-1) and something else for phosphorus and make your own mix.
      Just make sure you add Fertilizers that are high in Nitrogen.
      Never heard of Promix, but as long as it’s “Potting Soil” and it’s light n fluffy, that’s what you want.
      DO NOT use Manure or anything Rich n Heavy.
      The Seedling stage is the most difficult for growers. Make sure you don’t transplant them in any way.
      But the most vital part is the Temperatures need to be COOL (between 35(f) and 65(f) Degrees during Germination/Seedling Stages), and they need lot’s of light.
      The methods shown in the Videos here in this 5-Page Tutorial, assume that you’re growing in a Cooler Environment. (there are 5 pages of comments that all pertain to this 5-Page Tutorial, but you must navigate through the Comment Pages independant of the Tutorial- You should see the blue Page Numbers for Comments above, on the right)
      But if you’re temps are Higher than that, Follow the instructions in our other Tutorial: ‘LATE BLOOMERS’
      If you read the Comments there, you’ll see the success people have had using the ‘ICE Block Method’ I speak of.

      I also suggest that you glance at THIS TUTORIAL: ‘Why Poppy Stem so Floppy’
      Hope this helps.

  10. Adrian
    09/15/2016 @ 8:56 am

    Hi
    I’ve just purchased some of your album ‘galania’ Afghan poppies which I am most grateful to have located again. You state in your information that this strain matures in 55 days and so professional farmers are able to make 4 plantings per year? I live in the UK latitude roughly 53 degrees north and 1 degree west. When would you recommend I begin planting for optimum yield and how many plantings could I make in a single year?
    Kind Regards
    AEB

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/16/2016 @ 4:06 am

      Mathematically speaking, yes, it makes it possible. Being that there are 365 Days in the year, has given growers the ability to Plant Seed, Harvest Pods, Prep & Fertilize Soil, Re-plant and Repeat. (reports say).

      Perhaps that’s only possible in certain Climates & terrain such as Afghanistan where the Diverse elevation of the terrain allows them to Plant at Optimal Temps year round by simply planting crops at higher or lower elevations.

      Otherwise, I have only grown Poppies at our Farm here in the USA.
      Which only allows me to grow them to maturity once a year.
      But I’ve never attepmted to plant more than that.
      All I can tell you, is the same thing I tell everyone who asks me questions about growing in an area I never been to, much less grown anything in.
      Which is the Optimal Temperatures, Soil Types, Light Requirements, etc. (see my reply to comments below)
      But caring for the Izmir Poppies, is the same for all Somniferum Poppies.
      Hope this helps.
      Sorry I couldn’t help you more.
      Be sure to see all 5 sections of this Tutorial as well as other Guides in our Blog.

      Thanks

  11. ididit86
    09/18/2016 @ 12:29 am

    So I am relatively new to gardening, but just became aware of a technique to extend blooming period for plants by “dead-heading”, which as I understand it, it clipping off a pod, just above the lower cabbage, after it flowers. Apparently this will induce the plant to continue flowering from the base upward again. Any comments concerning this technique if you have ever tried it, or heard of others doing so? I am experimenting with a continual growth cycle, and presently with 24 hr lighting, and am interested in this concept which additionally suggests a method of continually growing the same plant. I am experimenting with lighting and selection of various plants to have year long plant pots that can be brought in during cold and set back outside weather permitting. The possible impacts on seed, plant, and genetic quality, even with appropriately addressed nutritional supplementation, do make me wonder if this is frankly a collection of stupid ideas. I am a bit of a scientist at heart, and things like this do perk my interest I must admit… Pushing boundaries and such. I also am guilty of getting too excited with fertilizer, and killed off a majority of a beautiful (and what I can only estimate as a 99.99% germination of your excellent seeds [within both varieties I ordered to boot]). Any thoughts on if the survivors, who had minimal 2 leaf stage edge mush, are worth growing out or should I plant anew? I don’t really understand the implications of later plant life based on early trauma, should it be corrected. LONG Post..sorry about that. The best apology I suppose is genuinely recommending others to not think twice about the quality of your seeds, as my experience has been a PHENOMINAL Seed germination and readiness to grow! In terms of eBay reviews, A+++++++++ Great seller! Lol.

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/10/2016 @ 1:13 am

      I personally have never “dead-headed” since I need the pods to mature to full maturity in order to harvest seeds. But I have spoken to hundreds of growers who have tried it. Problem is, there is not, and never will be, a way to prove that it boosts the growth of the lower blooms.
      I’ve seen the lower blooms grow to maturity WITHOUT “dead-heading”, but have never really seen any increase by means of “dead-heading”.
      I think “dead-heading” is just another thing that “Weed Growers” do, that somehow gets mixed into Growing Poppies (as with ‘Leaf behavior’ from your latest Comment), simply because each Plant contains Narcotic Properties.
      Truth is, Poppies are the furthest thing from a weed as you can get. They aren’t similar in ANY way.
      Their Nutrient needs are different, as are their Temp. and Light Cycle needs, as well as their behavior in general.
      I HAVE answered questions about Poppy Leaves actually (with photos, etc), in a Comment response in THIS TUTORIAL HERE
      But will try to do into more depth regarding your concern when I get to your latest Comment in a bit.
      You’ll see in that same Tutorial Photos of a Poppy Plant with OVER 75 Blooms and Pods I grew once – no “dead-heading”, nothing special. They were the ‘Hungarian Blue’ Papaver Somniferum Poppy
      Hope this helps.
      -OrgBot

      • Brandon
        10/13/2016 @ 4:36 pm

        Thanks a lot for your response. I did make mention of the majority of google search results of leaf interpretation pertaining to weed growers although I do not and have not grown weed; but the fact remains that leaves of all plants manifest deficiencies through their leaves to some extent which I have been trying to apply here to my plants. The dead heading reference I found online was actually a horticulture article written by a Martha Stewart type forum author. It was pro ported by her to prevent the poppy from dying and to keep flowering, she did not mention trying to get lower pods to bloom but just to propagate the life of the plant and subsequent general blooming over time. My primary interest is not in seed production, but simply having flowers continually without having to start all over from the beginning every time it matures and would normally die. Your reminder, however, of the plant needing to reach maturity and dry up, in order to harvest seed for culinary uses for example, is appreciated though. I have begin thinking about harvesting seed to press poppy oil, and your clarification does give a good reminder there.

        I have had a wonderful experience getting your seeds to grow! It is mainly my end where the problems are creeping up on me. The furthest I have been able to get the plants are to the roughly softball size. Presently, the brand new growth leaves have leaf edge margins that are very light green and I have been experimenting with a lot to try and correct it. I have already killed off many progressing plants from over watering, over miracle growing, and leaving out in a not sufficiently draining pot and had the root rot plague you wisely have mentioned. I think mainly overwatering was to blame for the leaf edge darkening and turning to mush I mentioned earlier. Now I have a handle on this, the new problem is this stunted growth and light green/yellowing new growth issue. Miracle grow was not able to fix this, at least it seems, but I was also watering too heavily along with it so perhaps it is early root rot and over saturation that obscures what could have been a fix in miracle grow. I have thought recently it perhaps could be a sulfur deficiency so I have added epsom salts at 1TBS per gallon so observe the effects. Most leaf guides and charts online, weed/or general plants, do seem to indicate low sulfur as being a potential deficiency manifested in yellowing new leaf margins. As stated, miracle grow might have been able to address this if I wasn’t over watering along with it. I advise all others to take your lessons to heart and to hang on every word because I am finding these plants to be extremely finicky over conditions and super susceptible to everything wrong you could do! So basically (to everyone tuning in) listen to org bot on well draining containers and watering frequency!

        • OrganicalBotanicals
          10/18/2016 @ 9:37 pm

          I think you may be confusing the Somniferum Poppy (opium poppy), which is an Annual (meaning, it dies each year, and must start from seed each grow season) –

          With another Common Poppy (Papaver Orientele), which also grow Pods (without morphine/codeine Alkaloids), and are much more Common with average Gardeners such as “Martha Stewart Type Bloggers”.

          Unlike Somniferum Poppies, Orientele Poppies are a “Perennial”, which means they stay in the ground year round, and cycle through growth stages.

          So just to clarify: THE SOMNIFERUM POPPY MUST DIE EACH SEASON!!

          Also, it sounds like you’re “Finicking” with them too much.
          They are best left alone if you can help it. They can adapt, but they need time to do so- and they are sensitive bitches that won’t grow unless they feel safe and secure.
          Also, try reading a few of our other Poppy Tutorials in the Blog (many of which, used to be part of this Tutorial, but I had to break it up as it was getting too large and took too long to load) Hope this helps.

          ORGanical
          BOTanicals

  12. Connor
    09/27/2016 @ 10:38 am

    I got a couple questions for you, what are your thoughts on Sincerely Nuts brand of seeds to grow?

    But more importantly, I live in New England and have a green house that is not being used. Do you think I could possibly grow poppies in it from now until winter? And how long does it take for them to finish? 2-3 months? How often should they be watered?

    Thank you my friend

  13. Subhut
    10/05/2016 @ 7:54 am

    Sorry, I meant…:

    I am having the problem you describe in your page “‘Why Poppy Stems so Floppy?”, but my plants always die’.

  14. ididit86
    10/09/2016 @ 6:57 pm

    Is there any way you could provide some tips on leaf diagnosis? Every time I try to look on the net for leaf signs of various messages the color and behavior of the leaves seem to be trying to indicate, I get directed to marijuanna growing sites. I would love a quick guide on “reading” poppy leaves for issues going on. There exists no resource, and it would be helpful if someone with a lot of experience growing them (such as yourself) could comment on different ways nutrient deficiencies manifest themselves, or problems that this plant may be susceptible to which can be observed and addressed by the horticulturalist. I have gotten many of the popppies I have grown to fairly advanced stages, but am observing I am overdoing something which has led many to this dark green leaf edge necrosis that I can’t seem to find out online what I have done wrong. If you could post some of your own observations of leaf behavior to help planters know what could be done to try to rectify the problem before the plant dies, this would be well appreciated. My guess is that I have provided the plant with too much nitrogen and caused this dark green leaf edge mush. I have responded by watering it like crazy to keep the plant from dying and hope this is the right response, but I have no reference to refer to on knowing what this means. Thanks so much!

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/16/2016 @ 6:11 pm

      Well, although Yellowing & Browning of the lower leaves is completely Natural during the later stages of growth, the problem you describe is something I have never personally experienced, but my best guess, based on the limited details you have provided, would be that the Leaf Edges are coming into Contact with something either on the ground (such as fertilizer, or manure) or while watering (such as liquid fertilizer.
      It’s very difficult to give Poppies “too much Nitrogen” (especially if using Organic Fertilizers, which are the only ones I suggest in this Tutorial) as Annual Poppies are actually a Nitrogen Dominant Plant throughout ALL Growth Stages.
      Unfortunately, people who know little about growing (Somniferum) poppies are mis-informing growers- even at Wikihow – which is, Ironically, an Article that WE were the Original Contributors of, but has since been diluted with several “Opinions”, not FACTS.
      Many times by others who are considered to have Authority based on their Blog’s Ranking, which provide broad ranged, Generic Tips. But Poppies, are NOT their Specialty.
      The Wikihow Article still features our Main Tutorial VIDEO
      We still try to help by Answering the Q&A’s above it though.
      But this is why people get confused, as the Article mentions using Manure, and Mulch – 2 things that have proved to RUIN Poppy Growth.
      As mulch covers that “extra” length of the Poppy Stem that MUST be left exposed, otherwise they won’t grow.
      But if you have any Pics, please upload them on our ‘Plant ID Page‘ so I can take a look.
      Remember to leave a Comment after uploading if you want to view the answer on our Blog.
      Otherwise, you’ll need to go to Dropbox and “Follow Comments” per your Pic.
      (If u have already uploaded your pics, please dis-regard this. I will be answering shortly)
      If there are other Comments you left that haven’t been approved yet, we’re working on them.
      THANKS!
      -OrgBot

  15. Taylor Youngson
    10/21/2016 @ 2:59 am

    I am growing papaver somniferum poppies for the first time. I found organicalbotanicals today and I am so grateful to have discovered the page. The blog answered a couple of pressing questions that had started to worry me (especially “Floppy Poppy”). I do have a couple of other questions that I would greatly appreciate your help to answer.
    A little background: I live in Alabama. I designated a flower bed in my backyard for growing poppies. I ordered a variety of papaver somniferum seeds and cast them into the soil in August. August in AL is hot, however, the flower bed gets a decent combination of shade and sun light. For whatever reason, after a couple of weeks, I had several sprouts come up. Due to a few mistakes early on, several of those original sprouts died. I planted another round of seeds in late August and early September. These are the sprouts that I am working with now. It is October 21, 2016 and it has just recently cooled off in AL. It is around 65 degrees at night and 75 – 80 degrees during the afternoon. It will continue to cool off but our winters rarely see snow. My poppy sprouts seem very healthy but they seem to be developing extremely slowly. Because this is my first experience growing poppies, I don’t know if this is a normal growth rate or not. Compared to other flowers I have grown, they seem slow. That said, they are developing. I wish that they were in a better location to get more sunshine, but they are not in full shade or too dark (I hope).
    * Is there a way to help the poppies get the most out of the limited sunlight they’re receiving? Obviously, I do not want to transplant. They are gradually growing but I think part of the slow growth has to do with limited sunlight. Sometimes I worry that the plants seem “stuck” in the current growth stage. I think I am just being impatient though.
    My next question has to do with growing in the Fall. Everything that I’ve read says that by growing in the Fall the plant will bloom in the early Spring after the snow and frost are gone. However I doubt any of these references are working in Alabama. If it snows here, it will be in February or later. Because the poppies have sprouted and are developing lettuce like leaves…And because I do not foresee a snow or heavy frost anytime soon… And because it is realistic to expect prime conditions until around December, my hope is that the poppies will fully mature before the spring. Do you think this is possible? There is a great chance that I am missing something or that my hope is just wishful thinking.
    * If growing very slowly, how long will they take to bloom? Considering the southern conditions, is it at all possible that I may have flowers and seed pods at some point this winter? I was originally thinking it would be in late November – mid December but this was before I did research.
    * Is there anything I can do to speed up or encourage development?
    * If there is little or no chance that the poppies will mature this winter, what will happen to the poppies that are currently growing? Will I be able to hold out hope for early Spring? It seems like they could possibly die once January or February rolls around. Who knows? Last Christmas it was hot in AL.
    * I am really enjoying my poppy project and I would love to succeed. Even if my “sooner the better” expectations are unrealistic or impossible, eventual success will be just fine.
    * Any other advice for a first time southern grower?
    Please feel free to ask for more details, pictures, information or whatever else might help you to answer my questions and/or point me in a successful direction.
    Worst case scenario, I kill every poppies and only grow a failure tree… I will continue to try in the spring. I have learned a lot but only on my own and with zero information specific to Alabama poppies in the Fall.
    Thank you very much for taking the time to read this. I hope that you will respond. Any information or advice would be sincerely appreciated. If not, I understand. I’m just some internet dude rambling about an interest that by comparison I know very little about. Most people around the US have an extremely inaccurate impression of what the people in Alabama are like. While there are stereotypical rednecks, the city that I live in is up and coming and populated by well educated professionals, talented artists and could easily stand up to any culinary scene in the country. I have been all over the world and my city has some of the best restaurants around.
    With your help, we will have an accomplished organical botanical poppy enthusiast too.
    Peace,
    Doctor Tay

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/26/2016 @ 10:36 pm

      Hi thanks for the questions. I will answer in more detail in a bit, but the answer to your first question, I have answered in the Comment reply on our Video HERE

      • Taylor Youngson
        10/27/2016 @ 5:31 pm

        Thank you for the video and apologies for the previous wall of text. I got a little carried away upon finding someone who is knowledgeable and willing to help. I will try perlite this weekend.
        My garden has seen some progress this week. Although a seemingly slow progression, they poppy sprouts seem very healthy.
        I’m still curious about when to expect them to bloom. I estimate 2 more months of growing weather. I would be happy to send photos if that would help you with answering. I greatly appreciate your help and hope to hear back from you at your convenience .

  16. Angel
    12/15/2016 @ 10:30 am

    WHAT NOT TO DO:
    1. Once petals fall off is ready for harvest. Tt must be early in the morning or late in the day. So early or late its scored from bottom to top must be careful there 5 layers to the skin you only want to score thru the top membrane (I suggest using a- [COMMENT HAS BEEN TRUNCATED BY MODERATOR]
    USER HAS BEEN WARNED!!!

  17. Behrad Emami
    12/16/2016 @ 3:12 pm

    I noticed in a YouTube thread that explained NOT to plant Papaver somniferum consecutively each year in the same location, unless they get re-fertilized. A 6-3-3 organic fertilizer was recommended. Is there a particular brand that is best? Is Down to Earth “Citrus Mix” a good choice, or perhaps a liquid fertilizer? Also, when should the fertilizer be applied to the soil (in advance, prior to surface sewing)? Any advice is appreciated. Take care, B

    Thanks and I look forward to your reply.

    • OrganicalBotanicals
      12/17/2016 @ 10:38 am

      I actually use the Down to Earth” Citrus Mix (6-3-3) and work it into the Soil PRIOR to planting.
      And that was actually one of OUR Youtube Videos or one of our Articles on WikiHow.
      (since it’s rare to find anyone who knows about Poppies needing more Nitrogen then any other Nutrient).
      -OrgBot

    • thegreatappreciator
      01/08/2017 @ 3:04 pm

      Thanks man. Helps a ton. Look forward to placing an order soon.

  18. Chester Copperpot
    01/07/2017 @ 6:04 pm

    Hey there, so grateful for this info and blog. Im running two LED 400 w and a 600 watt HID (metal halide until they began to flower, then HPS). To my surprise, they are doing very well. Not very large mind you, but healthy and producing. Can you possibly elaborate on the faint brown ring at the pod base that supposedly signals harvest time? I have discovered that the crowns sticking up is not really a good indicator, because they actually stick straight up on persian whites as soon as the petals drop. Do you have any additional photos of the ring?

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