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Growing Papaver Somniferum Poppies

(Part 1 of 5):

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When, Where, and How to Grow Somniferum Poppies (1 of 5)

  • Week 1

    Preparation & Germination

      During Germination, & throughout their Seedling Stages, Temperatures MUST be between º33 and º65 Degrees (F) or º1-º18 Degrees (C).

      It can take up to 2 Weeks for germination. Make sure to follow our Tips in the Videos on how to Protect them from Birds & Slugs during those first few weeks.

      YES, they DO need LIGHT to Germinate and they HATE being Transplanted.

    But can withstand warmer Temps when Mature

    Seeds take roughly 2 weeks to Sprout. Alternatively, you can plant half your seeds in the Fall, and half in the Spring, but if you get a lot of snow in your area, they’ll die.

  • Week 2-3

    Planting Poppy Seeds

    Poppies CAN be very easy to grow, and can also grow almost anywhere in the world, and require very little maintenance (once they get going). Generally speaking, growing poppies can be done almost anywhere.

    HOW to plant, simply cast seeds on top of loose, moist soil. No need to bury them – but you can gently press them into the ground, or toss a very thin layer of soil on top. You can mix your Seeds with Sand to Spread them as you cast them, but SALT works best, as it retains Moisture, prevents clumping, AND deters Slugs from eating sprouts. 

    Papapver Somniferum Poppy Seedling Sprout
    1 to 2 Weeks

    • WHEN to plant will depend on which USDA Zone you are located in, but generally, seeds will sprout whenever Temps rise above Freezing (32, as Poppies prefer cool Temperatures during the Germination and Seedling stages. 
    • Poppy Seeds can be planted in either FALL, early SPRING, or BOTH (depending on how Mild your Winters are)

    WATERING: Just keep soil moist at all times during germination, but keep them Well-Ventilated (to avoid mold). Then, cut back as they mature to 2-4 x per week.

    Results of Planting in Fall will provide earlier, and much larger blooms the following Spring, whereas Planting in Spring will still result in a spectacular display of Blooms, but just in early Summer.







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  1. Travis77
    05/22/2015 @ 2:39 pm

    Dear O.B.— A week ago, I transplanted some small seedlings with 3 sets of leaves. I used a technique where I took 4 plastic credit cards–pushed them down around a seedling (making a temporary square pot). I put on thin strips of masking tape on the corners of the credit cards (above the ground). Then I put an “elastic” (rubber band) around the credit cards. I dug down with a butter knife and lifted out this square temp. pot. I transplanted this (and 4 others into a large pot someone gave me). The problem is that the soil is too “peaty” and my seedlings started to get “yellow” leaves. So, a week LATER, I performed the SAME procedure–dug out all the soil–put fresh airy soil in–then re-transplanted them. When I first transplanted them, I bought a product called “SuperThrive” which helps with “transplant shock”. Do you think the “yellow leaves” will go away ? As this new soil dries out, I will put another dose of “SuperThrive”. Do you think there’s any hope for these plants ? By the way, this is the first time I’ve ever tried growing “papaver”.

    Show less


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/23/2015 @ 4:03 pm

      Yellow leaves at this early stage usually means they need Nitrogen. But I believe it was the transplanting that did them in. It doesn’t matter if you’ve got the hand of GOD, you need to be very experienced and lucky to have them live after transplanting.
      It CAN be done, but only when they are really young (first 2 to 4 weeks), and even then, if done by a PRO, they will STILL go into a state of Stunted growth induced by shock.
      Transplanting them is probably the #1 thing NOT to do with Poppies. This is why I go through the extra effort to use Peat Pellets and even those create a whole other set of problems such as stunting growth if you don’t put them in the ground in time for the tap Root to shoot through the pellet.
      They can also increase the chances of mold and diseases later in life because the solid surrounding their root, doesn’t fall away and let it breath like loose soil would.
      These are things I have not discussed above.


  2. Travis77
    05/29/2015 @ 6:07 pm

    Dear O.B.
    I think my Peshawar White p*ppies are ‘bolting’ already and I can see a bud. They are only 6 inches tall ! It’s only been 7 weeks ? I am growing in 10″ -12″ pots. I could send you pictures if you like ?

    The only things I added to the soil was 1 cup of used dry tea bags (minus the bags) and 1/3 cup of pulverized egg shells, 3 tsp. of a dry pellet fertilizer 6-10-10 (I think) . I used only 1/6th strength of Miracle Gro Tomato Food (MG) 18-18-21 a few weeks ago. The other day the soil was dry (I use that ‘water meter’ thingy–looks like a thermometer) & I used the MG again, but stronger–at 1/2 strength. I forgot I had bought the Alaska Fish Fertilizer. So I quickly mixed up some & poured it on (the soil was already wet from the MG). I used recommended strength [I Tbl. to a 1/2 gallon). The fertilized water came pouring out of the holes of the pots into a bowl I keep under the plant. I used that ‘run off’ and watered the bushes outside.

    We have been having ‘unusual’ warm weather for the past couple of weeks (72 to 85 degrees) for May and no rain. Could it be like lettuce or cabbage–that when the weather gets too hot, those plants ‘bolt’ and send up a flower stalk & go to seed ? But the Danish Flag ones are still forming ‘rosettes’ ? The Burpee ‘Black Swan’ ones have been terrible (1 small rosette and 1 medium sized rosette). I bought some Northrup-King expanding starter peat pots (but they aren’t peat–I think it’s like ‘sawdust’) to start a few more ‘Black Swan’ variety. They are finally germinating.
    Concerning the seeds I planted in the wild flower garden–I think the ants are carrying those seeds away as food. I think next year (if I decide to try growing them again), I might try the ones that you sell that mature in 55 days.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/30/2015 @ 5:57 am

      Cool, ok. If you wish to submit Pics, do that on THIS PAGE where I have installed a Simple Uploader

      A few of mine are Bolting too here in WA – Two reasons. Unusually hot Weather for this time of year (75˚-85˚ degrees). And the other reason is that I bought them as Plant Starts from my Local Grocer long before I planted any seeds of my own (yes, it’s true- Labeled “Papaver Somniferum” – they sell them every year as shown in THIS POST).

      But I didn’t thin them out as much as I would have liked to. So all the ones that are closer together are Bolting. But there’s one off to the side by itself that has all the room it wants, and it’s NOT Bolting. So it makes sense. If they can no longer grow “outward”, they’ll begin to grow “upward” since their instincts are making them do whatever it takes to assure reproduction occurs.

      As they continue into the Cabbage Stage, it’s important to keep thinning them (I know, it kills me to yank a 6″ inch plant. But it’s well worth it in the end.

      I had a SINGLE Plant Produce over 70 Pods before. Not 7. Not 17. But 70. I have it on Video somewhere. I’ll have to find it. But it’s because it had lot’s of room (and my green thumb)



  3. OrganicalBotanicals
    07/03/2015 @ 2:39 am

    As Poppies mature, their lower leaves may begin to turn Yellow, or even Brown.
    This is actually quite normal, as the Plant begins to concentrate it’s nutrients upwards for Creating the Flowers & Pods.
    Unlike most flowers, poppies actually use up more Nitrogen than any other nutrient during EVERY stage of Growth.
    Although the need for Nitrogen remains dominant, it’s need for Phosphorus, Potash, and other nutrients, still exist for for all other stages, but may vary slightly depending on the type of poppy.
    It’s okay to remove these lower leaves as they begin to brown, especially any leaves at the very base of the stem where it meets the ground, as this may increase the chance of mold or mildew from forming (which poppies are very susceptible to).
    But try to leave others attached and let Nature do it’s job. Poppies use their lower leaves as a way to keep other plants from getting in the way of their Nutrients- so they acttually double as a natural weed block!!


  4. Kalee Spitzack
    07/12/2015 @ 4:24 pm

    I live in Dallas, TX and would like to try a few different specimens of the papaver somniferum poppy. I’ve read that the best time to sow the seeds here is in the fall (most prescriptive time frame I’ve been able to find has been September). If I broadcast the seeds this fall, am I expecting them to germinate this year or in the following spring?

    If I plant the seeds now (july) indoors in peat pots and plant them outside in late september, will they bloom this year before it gets too cold (first frost isn’t usually until november).

    Thanks for your help!!


    • Alexandros Drakos
      07/21/2015 @ 4:56 pm

      Hi i was wondering if you could give us some info about the methods used to avoid cross polination of 2 diferent poppy strains when they are flowering at the same time i imagine we can use some kind of paper bags to isolate the flower ?
      thank you for your time


      • OrganicalBotanicals
        07/28/2015 @ 10:51 pm

        @Alexandros Drakos
        One method I use is a Staggered Growth method, but if you MUST have them Flowering at the same time, you’ve got to stay on top of things.
        This means waking up before sunrise in order to beat the Bees to the Pollen.
        No need for bags.
        A simple clothespin will work. Just pinch the petals closed, but before you do, do your best to pollinate each one (that’s what I do, even though I know I don’t really need to).
        Another option would be to remove the Stamens- But wash your hands between Strains or YOU will be guilty of Crossing them. *LOL*
        But ‘Cross-Polli Prevention’ is only half the battle. I assume you’re wanting to keep them separate for a reason.
        Well, whatever the reason, don’t forget to label their Stems so you remember what’s what when it comes to seed harvesting.
        Since it takes another month or so from the time the petals fall, until the seeds are ready- and you must leave them in the ground for the seeds to mature.
        It’s not too uncommon for Poppies (or Nature in general) to throw u a curveball every so often.
        So although you may have used Plastic Plant Labels and stuck them in the Soil, there’s a good chance you might get some variations which is why I use the Single Stem Labeling method. Just use masking tape and a Sharpie. I also take a Photo of the Poppy Flower along with the Label next to it prior to applying the label to the stem (only if I get something new or unexpected).


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      07/28/2015 @ 10:27 pm

      @Kalee Spitzack – Sorry for the delayed reply. It’s Harvest time so things have been crazy. When planting in Fall, YES, it is expected for them to germinate and enter into Cabbage Stage before Winter.
      This is why it’s only possible to Over-Winter Poppies in places with Mild Winters because if you get much snow or nights below freezing, it will kill them.
      Whereas the seeds themselves are actually preserved in Freezing Temps.
      I don’t usually recommend starting indoors (when I use Peat Pellets, I put them outdoors using the method shown in Video) –
      But since you’re probably not worried about Temps being too COLD, rather your Temps are most likely too WARM at the moment I assume.
      Well, it couldn’t hurt throwing down some Seeds early. The sooner the better because they have more chance of surviving Winter when they are Bigger rather than smaller.
      They won’t Bloom until they sense there’s a Future for them to make it to maturity, so you will get much earlier Blooms next Spring if you plant in Fall.You can also Plant in Spring too and have others Blooming later.
      Make sure to Fertilize the Soil (especially with Nitrogen Rich Organic Fertilizer (Blood Meal, Bat, or Seabird Guano) – ESPECIALLY if you’ve planted Poppies in the same area in prior years.
      Poppies use more Nitrogen during EVERY phase of their Life Cycle. Including the Flowering Stage (when most flowers use more Phosphorus).
      Also, be sure to check back later on our Poppy Seed Prices, as they will drop once we process this last harvest.


  5. jerseygirl
    09/06/2015 @ 6:05 pm

    Great tutorial! thank you! I live in Northern CA and it can be hot here in sept/oct. I am confused about when to start germinating and planting. Can you advise? Also, if I plant in fall, will they bloom later in the fall, or are they dormant till spring? We don’t have frost here, so it seems like maybe there are two growing seasons?

    thank you!


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/07/2015 @ 4:47 am

      Actually, I’ve always been curious about Cali. In my opinion, they will remain in Vegetive Stage (Cabbage) as long as the days continue to get cooler and darker.
      Then will begin the Flowering Process once they know their Environment is safe enough to reproduce. So in Cali, I would imagine they’d begin to ‘Exit’ the Vegetive State soon after the Equinox passes (Dec. 21st).
      They like to Flower to Maturity in Temps between 70f – 85f – So since Cali Temps are already pushin’ those kinda numbers at the turn of the year, I would imagine you’d have Flowers in Full Bloom by Feb. at the latest.
      I know Multi-Seasons are possible in other areas – but u need the right Variety. Something that matures early such as the “Izmir Aghan Special” which mature in 55 Days.


      • jerseygirl
        09/11/2015 @ 11:26 pm

        thank you! That is very helpful. Actually, in northern CA, temps are still very chilly in February, so I’m guessing that will mean they will “exit” in Spring – closer to march/april.


  6. Ellis Moore
    09/24/2015 @ 7:44 am

    I am trying to grow, Tasmanian purple and Giant varieties of somniferum, when should I plant? I am in USDA zone 6a


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/27/2015 @ 5:57 am

      I assume you get quite a bit of snow of Freezing temps over the Winter in 6A – So planting in Spring just as you’re approaching last Frost would be ideal.
      In fact, if you have a bit of snow on the ground, throw some seeds down and cover them with a thin layer of snow to allow Light to pass through.
      This will also insulate them, provide moisture when needed, and protect them from other pests until they sprout(most of the time).
      For germinating, they prefer Temps just above Freezing at night and Temps around 55 – 65 (f) in the day.
      BTW, where did u buy your Tazzies? Are the the Izmir Tasmanian Variety? Or some other kind?


  7. Gianni Miquini
    10/21/2015 @ 11:35 pm

    Hello! Thanks for replying to me on Twitter. I’ve watched your tutorial videos and read this site and I purchased the papaver somniferum mixed seeds some time ago. However, I have a question about when to plant my poppy seeds. I live in USA hardiness zone 9a (I live in South Carolina) and the weather here is quite warm well into late fall. Should I wait until the tempurature during the day droop below 70 degrees F to plant my seeds? Or can I plant them now?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/24/2015 @ 10:05 am

      Hey, thanks for leaving your question.
      There several solutions to plant during warmer temps. One of which I answered up above in my Facebook Comment (just below the “Products”) where I talk about using a thin layer of Ice.
      I would use Pots.
      Leave about 5″ to 6″ inches of space at the top. So only fill the Soil partially. Be sure to read the “Pots or Not?” Section just ABOVE the Products where I talk about using Layers of Rocks, Perlite, Fertilizer, etc.
      The 6″ of room at the top will serve multiple purposes.
      – One being that you can wrap a Porous garden Fabric at the top (or a Net) – which will keep Birds from stealing your seeds prior to sprouting- and they will still have room to grow.
      – Another being that it can also protect them from Temperatures (both high and low). So if it’s warm like you say, the extra space at the Top can offer them Shade for part of the day (depending on how you position them). Or, since in Pots, you could move them on a really hot day. YES, they need DIRECT Light, but they don’t need it all day.
      – Then as Temps get colder, depending on the fabric you use, it can protect them from Frost (at which point you’d obviously water them with WARM water,
      – Additionally, you can even add Water Soluble Fertilizers on top of the Fabric (keep it tout using clips, bungie cords, rubber bands). Give some slack to it, and set a rock in the middle. That way, the water won’t run off the edges.
      – The last option would be, if you don’t wish to use Pots, try planting them in a place that provides Shade during Peak Daytime Hours. I always plant them North of a tall Tree since we live on the Northern Hemisphere, the Sun will always be slightly South, casting a Northern shadow,

      Also, be sure to read through the other Q & A’s (BELOW). There is actually more up to date info below, then there is above (if you read my answers to other questions).

      Ok, hope this helps.


  8. disqus_yabofUn7SG
    12/19/2015 @ 2:36 pm

    Hi, thanks for your tutorials. Good stuff.
    Do you have spacing and depth requirements? For example how many inches apart can the plants be, and is there a minimum depth?
    I’m growing several in a small greenhouse, so I have very little space to spare.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      12/20/2015 @ 4:43 pm

      Hi, I talk about spacing, etc in the Tutorial. Have you read through it? Look in the #thinning Section:
      But it’s usually best to leave about 12″ inches between each at least. If you’re conserving space or not. It’s better to have less plants and allow them room to grow strong, thick stems, than it is to try and cram them close together, which will result in plants with thin, weak stems, too weak to hold a healthy group of pods.



  9. mysticalmanatee
    02/10/2016 @ 8:06 am

    Hello, I’ve got seeds on the way from you, but I decided to try and plant some other seeds I had laying around from some dried pods I got from the web. They are sprouting already, after only 5 days instead of 2 weeks. The pods I bought weren’t very good is it possible they were a different type of poppy, not a somniferum?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      02/13/2016 @ 10:47 pm

      It’s Possible, yes. It can take UP TO two weeks for them to sprout, but CAN sprout in 6 days. If you have a Pic of the Pod, Seeds, or the Sprouts, I may be able to help identify them. Try uploading Pics using the Upload Tool on our ID Page HERE.

      Many Poppies have “Pods”, and even bleed -But not all are Somniferum.


      • mysticalmanatee
        02/14/2016 @ 12:30 pm

        Ok, i just uploaded 2 pics of my seedlings, thanks so much for taking a look at them for me, I’d hate to waste too much room if they’re not somniferum, especially since I’ve got quite a few known seeds on the way.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      03/02/2016 @ 2:05 pm

      I saw the photos of the Sprouts. But it’s too early to tell. They could be anything. I was hoping for photos of the Pods they came from or something. I may be able to tell by now if you wanna try submitting some Pics now.


      • mysticalmanatee
        03/04/2016 @ 9:38 am

        I should have taken pictures of the pods that I got the seeds from, but I didn’t think of it at the time, and since then those pods got accidentally ground up.

        I’ll go out in a little bit and get pictures of what they look like now, I’ve been concerned because after I thinned them down last week they all fell over and they look a mess. They are still getting bigger though, so fingers crossed.


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          03/11/2016 @ 3:25 am

          Scroll up to “WEEK 6” – just above where it says “CABBAGE STAGE” there a BIG Button that says:
          Click on that to expand it.


  10. coppercrow
    02/26/2016 @ 7:18 pm

    First, I have to say that I am so happy that I found your website with all its great information and videos regarding everything Poppy. I only wish I had found you a little sooner, it would have saved a few poor seeds (lol) ! Even though your website has a lot of information, I do have a few questions for my situation. I live in zone 9b ( actually almost 10) and I recently purchased some Papaver Orientale and Papaver Rhoeas seeds which I received too late to plant in the Fall. Our so called Winter is all but over with our day time temps already reaching the mid to high 70’s and some of our evenings are in the mid to high 60’s. In your extensive experience with Poppies, do you think it’s worth the time for me to plant now (Feb.26th) ? I do understand that in warmer locations, you recommend using crushed ice on top of the seeds and ice cubes around young plants, but do you think this technique would provide enough “cooler temps” for my seeds to survive and thrive to maturity ? If your opinion for me is to wait until next Fall, where would you recommend that I store my seeds until then ? Thank you in advance for your time….Happy Planting !!!!


  11. deej13
    04/13/2016 @ 9:37 am

    I sowed some poppies a few weeks ago and this morning I discovered small pastel yellow egg-shaped things dotted with white spots growing on the edge of the bed just behind my seedlings. I’ve researched it and it doesn’t sound like any common mold I’ve read about or something an insect may have left behind. I’m very new at this, I just need to know if this is harmful to the seedlings or I should just leave it be. Have you heard about these?


  12. HulGil
    05/13/2016 @ 1:06 pm


    Fantastic site on growing poppies you have here.
    I have about two dozen Peshawar White poppies growing that I planted exactly one month ago. I’m eager to see how they fare.
    I have them on a gentle slope facing southeast to get the morning sun…they get shade at about 2:30-3 p.m. They’re doing well so far. Zone 7, eastern U.S.
    Can you provide any additional information about Peshawar White poppies? (Reliable information about them seems hard to come by.)
    These are described as non GMO and 75 days to flower. They are not the same as the Elka Whites from eastern Europe are they?
    Regarding poppy genetic variation and interbreeding, would you recommend raising only one strain year after year, or a variety of somniferum strains and letting them freely interbreed? I wish to select the best plants for the hardiness zone where I live.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/14/2016 @ 6:31 am

      Nice Username!! LOL – The so called “Elka” is simply the first RECORDED Genetic history in regards to the ‘White Seeded’ Variety of the Somniferum Poppy. The one thing that is scientific fact about the white seeded varieties, are that they hold a higher oil content than the grey/blue varieties.
      Which makes me question why they aren’t used more often for Culinary purposes, since they offer a lightly sweeter taste than their blue brothers.
      In fact, I’ve never seen them on ANY Spice rack for that matter.
      I’ve even had people try to tell me on youtube that there’s no such thing as “White Opium Poppy Seeds”.
      There is also the ‘Album’ Variety- which are also white (or off-white) in Color.
      I believe the Afghan Peshawar Poppy Seeds are also the Album var.
      The only GMO Poppy Seeds out there (besides the ‘Norman’ Strain, which was NEVER released to the Public) that I’ve heard of is, the ‘Izmir Afghan Galania GMO Poppy Seed’ which we have been breeding since 2006 (and are also of the ‘Album’ Variety).
      You can use different methods to avoid cross-breeding. Such as planting them in Staggered stages (about 3 weeks apart) per Variety.
      You can also use clothespins on the Petals (which can be difficult), or you can build Screenboxes and place them over the entire plant (during bloom stage only) to keep bees out.
      Thee ONLY way they will “Cross” is by the ‘Bee’.
      I guess the human can cause them to cross pollinate too if they touch multiple Poppy Stamens/Pods.
      Otherwise, each flower will simply ‘self-pollinate’ a copy of themselves.
      Remember that RED is Dominant in the Poppy world. So if you were to let a mixed field of poppies continue to ‘Cross’ year after year, eventually, they’d all end up Red (or have Red in them).
      2nd dominant is the Blues (which are actually purple). But ‘Purple’ is actually not a proper ‘Poppy Somniferum’ term.
      (just in case u happen to see someone trying to sell ‘Purple Tasmanian Somniferum Seeds’, you’ll know they are very inexperienced- I’d avoid’em)


  13. HulGil
    05/15/2016 @ 12:44 pm

    Thanks for the reply, OrgBot.
    I had a couple of other questions regarding the Giganteum strain.
    Were they bred for increased seed production and are their alkaloid contents comparable to other strains grown for opium production?
    Do other strains occasionally produce large pods due to genetic variation?
    How many seeds are produced on average per pod of Giganteum? How many average per pod of non giant strains?


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      05/16/2016 @ 6:42 pm

      The only thing the Giganteum Poppy (or other ‘Giant’ Pod Varieties) have in them that is ‘extra’ is AIR.
      I believe they were bred just for show.
      There are no more seeds (or anything else, for that matter) than any other varieties.
      Org-anical Bot-anicals


  14. Mike01100
    06/12/2016 @ 1:30 pm

    Je vie en France merci pour se site mes pavot somnifère pouce mais sont tous petit ils sont 10 dans un seul pots moyen je pense qu il ont pas assez de place je vais ressayer sa avec vos conseil
    Merci l Amérique


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      06/21/2016 @ 8:06 am

      Soyez sûr de voir notre tutoriel AUTRES Page de plantation dans Warmer waether ou dans les pots . Aussi, vous verrez une photo d’une seule plante que nous avions avec plus de 75 Blooms et cosses . Toujours bon de laisser beaucoup de place . Merci!


      • Mike01100
        06/23/2016 @ 4:39 am

        Je vais vous envoyer une photo.pouvez vous me dire quelle variété c est .


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          06/23/2016 @ 5:56 pm

          Pour envoyer une photo , s’il vous plaît le télécharger sur notre page ” ID usine ” – vous verrez un bouton qui dit ” Choisissez Fichier ” puis sélectionnez la photo à partir de votre ordinateur et cliquez sur «Envoyer» .


          • Mike01100
            06/26/2016 @ 5:59 am

            Ok j ai envoyer 2 photos pouvez vous me dire quelle variété de pavot et si il devrez pouvoir être plus gros.merci


  15. mastershake
    06/20/2016 @ 2:19 pm

    Ok so Im a new poppy grower, I started some danish flag, Tasmanian purple, and Gigantium(not sure on spelling) in april and they germinated fine. I started them off in small pots under a cfl and transplanted them to 1gal plastic pots. Im unsure what to do at this point, they are inside under HID light on a 12/12 schedule and they are larger now very leafy and range from 6″ leaves and 6″ tall down to 3″ at the smallest. Can I put them outside? Will they start flowering? Its June 19th now. Im in the SF bay area Ca. Im unsure what to expect because I got a late start, I dont know what makes poppies go into flower? Please any advice on what to do would be greatly appreciated!!!


    • mastershake
      06/20/2016 @ 2:27 pm

      Ok so Im a new poppy grower, I started some danish flag, Tasmanian purple, and Gigantium(not sure on spelling) in april and they germinated fine. I started them off in small pots under a cfl and transplanted them to 1gal plastic pots. Im unsure what to do at this point, they are inside under HID light on a 12/12 schedule and they are larger now very leafy and range from 6″ leaves and 6″ tall down to 3″ at the smallest. Can I put them outside? Will they start flowering? Its June 19th now. Im in the SF bay area Ca. Im unsure what to expect because I got a late start, I dont know what makes poppies go into flower? Please any advice on what to do would be greatly appreciated!!!

      Just realized today is the longest day of the year and its when pre bloom is to begin. My poppies seem way too small for this stage, as I said the largest ones are about 6″tall with 6″ leaves. I think the way I started them lead to a slow growth. So Im still unsure what to do with them at this point. Anyway thanks for reading!


      • OrganicalBotanicals
        06/21/2016 @ 7:58 am

        That Timeline isn’t strict to the date, and Varies in each area. As long as your temps aren’t pushing 95(f)+ or more each day, then put them outside.
        I have Poppies of all Sizes on our Farm. Some which have finished blooming. Some that are about to bloom, some are not. Size doesn’t have a thing to do with them Blooming. They can bloom at ONE INCH. I’ve also had 7′ Footers blooming.
        Depends on several variables (especially what kind of childhood they had – and the temps it was when they were first born.


        • mastershake
          06/21/2016 @ 5:41 pm

          Thanks for the reply…. Ok that puts my mind at ease…. I was a little concerned that the poppies were like Cannabis where if you mess with the photo period putting it into flower and then reversing, it can have really bad effects. Any way it sounds like I should be fine with my little guys and I can place them outside. It has been hot out so Ill watch out for heat waves and move them inside where it is cooler. I know Poppies don’t like to be transplanted but I’m wondering if I should move them into different pots/soil. I used a pretty mulchy potting soil and wanted to give them a perlite heavy mix, but at this point I’m not sure if that would do more harm than good? Like I said they are about 6″ and very leafy looking healthy


          • OrganicalBotanicals
            06/23/2016 @ 5:44 pm

            I’ve had success transplanting them at 6″. But it’s a 50/50 chance. So only take the risk if you know you can afford it.


  16. auralharmony
    06/27/2016 @ 1:12 pm

    Actually found your site by accident, very informative…I am a baker and a gardener. I purchase poppy seeds in 25 pound boxes for baking, the seeds left on the counter I throw outside for the birds, well this spring I ended up with 9 large poopy plants and from what I see on Google image search they are Tasmanian white /purple. The other day I was weed whacking and hit one, the milky stuff came out orange colored, I always thought the sap was white. Long story short I looked it up and found something about a Norman poppy. I wanted to use these seeds even a little amount for my baking but now I am concerned that they are the Thebaine version, as a gardener I know that GM seeds are never released by large companies to the public so I am thinking that some poppies just have darker sap than others, what do you think? I can’t imagine the seeds I purchase in bulk would come from a possible deadly plant especially since I get these unwashed.

    thank you!

    P.S. I looked at interest at your ishmar red/white poppy seeds, if I purchased now are they still viable next spring?

    P.S. I saw your ishmar red/white poppies, if I buy seeds now


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      06/29/2016 @ 2:39 pm

      So you must have come across that popular Article where they Compare the SAP Color of a Norman, and a Regular Taz Strain, and saw that the Thebaine Alkaloid comes out Tinted with Orange.
      So what does that have to do with baking their Seeds?
      Unless you plan on putting the SAP into your Batter, there shouldn’t be any Concern.
      In fact, 95% of all Commercial Seed you buy in Bulk is of the Tasmanian Variety. Perhaps for consistency, but I imagine, although they’re mostly grown for Manufacturing Synthetic Pain Meds, that their Seeds aren’t just thrown away.
      I mean, they must be sold somewhere right?
      Nevertheless, one would have to invest a year to grow them if they wanna find out.
      But regardless, the seeds aren’t poison to bake with – and if you’re worried about residue, then wash them off before adding them to any recipe.
      ALL Somniferum Poppies are considered “Poison” and/or “Deadly”. – Norman or not.
      That’s because they contain Alkaloids that Directly Effect the Human Body’s CNS, alter brain signals, and hinder the Control of our bodies.
      Compared to the main Two Dominant Alkaloids (you know which ones), Thebaine has little to no effect unless it’s Synthesized.
      So I’d be more worried about the first two alkaloids, which are also considered “Poisons” unless or until they’re Prescribed otherwise.

      To answer your question about whether our seeds will be Viable for next Spring.
      Why wouldn’t they be?
      We grow them every year.
      How else would the plant have evolved for thousands of years??
      They would have gone Extinct long ago if they didn’t last from one Season to the Next.
      Hope this helps,


    • Poppyhead
      07/04/2016 @ 2:35 pm

      I am curious as to what the best fertilization protocol is for the Azmir Afghan GMO strain is? I presently have them growing in composted clay/sandy type soil that drains very well. The climate is dry year round with humidity normally around 30-40 percent in the rocky mountain region.
      Watering is almost a daily must as the soil dries out daily as the temperatures have been in the 80-90s. I dont water log them but do give them a good soaking in the morning.
      I started them out with fox farm big bloom which is a non burning seabird bat guano liquid fertilizer.
      When the cabbage growth started I started using tiger bloom a 2-8-4 with increased phosphorous and a small amount of nitrogen to start the green growth going.
      Beginning this week as they are really starting to blow I will switch to grow big 6-4-4.
      Is this enough nitrogen? Should it be increased to like a 12-6-6 at pre-bloom time or back to 2-8-4. All are liquid fertilizer and they are responding really well. I dilute in out in a 2 gallon watering jug and feed them every other day or so. The climate is very similar to afghanistan. Hot and fairly dry. A few plants stunted with yellow edges on the leaves. What is that? Had a very high germination rate and way more seedlings than I could use. No refrigeration. Just wintered them in a desk drawer. What is the best way to keep them until planting?
      Is it preferable to leave the entire plant in the ground until dry for seeds? Thanks.


      • OrganicalBotanicals
        07/21/2016 @ 2:01 pm

        Many people are unaware of this, but the Somniferum Poppy is a NITROGEN Dominant Species and requires more Nitrogen during ALL Growth Stages than any other of the Major Three (N-P-K).
        That does’t mean they don’t also need Phosphorous and Potash, but Nitrogen should always be highest.
        What I like to do is buy Organic Fertilizer ONLY (Good Earth).
        Then prior to planting, I mix my solid with something like a 6-3-3 ratio of NON-water Solubles. (Bone/Feather Meal, Seashells, Greensand, etc)
        Also, if you plant poppies in the same place every year, make sure you always re-fertilize the Soil before planting again.
        I talk about this everywhere in this Tutorial.
        I’m surprised you haven’t caught it.
        Remember there are TWO types of Bat Guano. One rich in Nitrogen, and one rich in Phosphorousdepending on whether they were Nocturnal Bats, or Night Sleepers.
        Also, what stage are your plants at? You say it’s been in the 80’s & 90’s?
        Poppies might sprout in those temps, but they surely won’t continue into the Cabbage Stage (or any other stage for that matter).
        I mean, you could try. But I’d call it a miracle if you got them to go into a Cabbage Stage with those kinda Temps.
        Temps MUSt be much cooler.
        You try my “ICE METHOD” using Pots as explained in our “Late Bloomers” Tutorial–> HERE


  17. John Tilley
    08/05/2016 @ 8:37 pm

    Thank you for the effort you put into this project. Very informative. Can’t wait to grow my beautiful poppy garden.


  18. falseflags
    08/07/2016 @ 10:00 am

    Thank you so much for creating, and maintaining, such a great site! It is a brilliant resource and I only wish that I had stumbled upon your site before planting Papaver somniferum seeds for the first time this year. It is certainly a learning experience trying to grow these plants for the first time and I hope my next attempt will be more successful. I am in U.S. Zone 8 and I think most of the 30 seedlings I started out with were killed by the intense heat. I’m growing in pots and trying to protect the three plants that I have left. Growth seems quite slow and all the plants seem to be going through the same cycle of the lower leaves turning brown and dying while the rest of the plant looks green, healthy and growing upright. This is the second time this has happened so far and I just wanted to ask if this is a normal stage of poppy growth.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/13/2016 @ 3:58 pm

      Well, browning Lowers leaves IS perfectly normal, but not until the Flowering Stage as seen in THIS PIC
      But if it’s happening prior to this, it’s because there’s not enough Nitrogen. Read the Comment I just answered above this one.
      Also, ALWAYS add more Nutrients to Soil wherever you plant poppies 2 years in a row. They deplete the soil’s nutrients each time.


  19. J. Jambon
    09/10/2016 @ 7:54 pm


    I really like your videos and explanation but is there some ressources to know what does the plant need in terms of nutrient (N-P-K) because I’ve tried with some 10-52-10, 20-20-20 and stuff like those but no really good success.. the poppies are always small, juicy, but small. and I cant start them inside with ”jiffy’s” so I plant them right in ”promix”, is this good for them or is there a better soil type?

    thanks a lot -a huge fan of your work


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/13/2016 @ 3:49 pm

      Hi, for your Nutrients, you’re going to need something with a High NITROGEN Ratio for ALL Stages of Growth.
      That’s one thing many people don’t know is that Poppies require more Nitrogen even during Flowering Stages.
      I always use Organic, NON Water-Soluble Nutrients for a steady release of Nutrients throughout.
      Usually a 10-6-6 or something similar.
      Or, buy some Bone or Feather meal (10-0-0), Greensand (0-0-1) and something else for phosphorus and make your own mix.
      Just make sure you add Fertilizers that are high in Nitrogen.
      Never heard of Promix, but as long as it’s “Potting Soil” and it’s light n fluffy, that’s what you want.
      DO NOT use Manure or anything Rich n Heavy.
      The Seedling stage is the most difficult for growers. Make sure you don’t transplant them in any way.
      But the most vital part is the Temperatures need to be COOL (between 35(f) and 65(f) Degrees during Germination/Seedling Stages), and they need lot’s of light.
      The methods shown in the Videos here in this 5-Page Tutorial, assume that you’re growing in a Cooler Environment. (there are 5 pages of comments that all pertain to this 5-Page Tutorial, but you must navigate through the Comment Pages independant of the Tutorial- You should see the blue Page Numbers for Comments above, on the right)
      But if you’re temps are Higher than that, Follow the instructions in our other Tutorial: ‘LATE BLOOMERS’
      If you read the Comments there, you’ll see the success people have had using the ‘ICE Block Method’ I speak of.

      I also suggest that you glance at THIS TUTORIAL: ‘Why Poppy Stem so Floppy’
      Hope this helps.


  20. Adrian
    09/15/2016 @ 8:56 am

    I’ve just purchased some of your album ‘galania’ Afghan poppies which I am most grateful to have located again. You state in your information that this strain matures in 55 days and so professional farmers are able to make 4 plantings per year? I live in the UK latitude roughly 53 degrees north and 1 degree west. When would you recommend I begin planting for optimum yield and how many plantings could I make in a single year?
    Kind Regards


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/16/2016 @ 4:06 am

      Mathematically speaking, yes, it makes it possible. Being that there are 365 Days in the year, has given growers the ability to Plant Seed, Harvest Pods, Prep & Fertilize Soil, Re-plant and Repeat. (reports say).

      Perhaps that’s only possible in certain Climates & terrain such as Afghanistan where the Diverse elevation of the terrain allows them to Plant at Optimal Temps year round by simply planting crops at higher or lower elevations.

      Otherwise, I have only grown Poppies at our Farm here in the USA.
      Which only allows me to grow them to maturity once a year.
      But I’ve never attepmted to plant more than that.
      All I can tell you, is the same thing I tell everyone who asks me questions about growing in an area I never been to, much less grown anything in.
      Which is the Optimal Temperatures, Soil Types, Light Requirements, etc. (see my reply to comments below)
      But caring for the Izmir Poppies, is the same for all Somniferum Poppies.
      Hope this helps.
      Sorry I couldn’t help you more.
      Be sure to see all 5 sections of this Tutorial as well as other Guides in our Blog.



  21. ididit86
    09/18/2016 @ 12:29 am

    So I am relatively new to gardening, but just became aware of a technique to extend blooming period for plants by “dead-heading”, which as I understand it, it clipping off a pod, just above the lower cabbage, after it flowers. Apparently this will induce the plant to continue flowering from the base upward again. Any comments concerning this technique if you have ever tried it, or heard of others doing so? I am experimenting with a continual growth cycle, and presently with 24 hr lighting, and am interested in this concept which additionally suggests a method of continually growing the same plant. I am experimenting with lighting and selection of various plants to have year long plant pots that can be brought in during cold and set back outside weather permitting. The possible impacts on seed, plant, and genetic quality, even with appropriately addressed nutritional supplementation, do make me wonder if this is frankly a collection of stupid ideas. I am a bit of a scientist at heart, and things like this do perk my interest I must admit… Pushing boundaries and such. I also am guilty of getting too excited with fertilizer, and killed off a majority of a beautiful (and what I can only estimate as a 99.99% germination of your excellent seeds [within both varieties I ordered to boot]). Any thoughts on if the survivors, who had minimal 2 leaf stage edge mush, are worth growing out or should I plant anew? I don’t really understand the implications of later plant life based on early trauma, should it be corrected. LONG Post..sorry about that. The best apology I suppose is genuinely recommending others to not think twice about the quality of your seeds, as my experience has been a PHENOMINAL Seed germination and readiness to grow! In terms of eBay reviews, A+++++++++ Great seller! Lol.


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/10/2016 @ 1:13 am

      I personally have never “dead-headed” since I need the pods to mature to full maturity in order to harvest seeds. But I have spoken to hundreds of growers who have tried it. Problem is, there is not, and never will be, a way to prove that it boosts the growth of the lower blooms.
      I’ve seen the lower blooms grow to maturity WITHOUT “dead-heading”, but have never really seen any increase by means of “dead-heading”.
      I think “dead-heading” is just another thing that “Weed Growers” do, that somehow gets mixed into Growing Poppies (as with ‘Leaf behavior’ from your latest Comment), simply because each Plant contains Narcotic Properties.
      Truth is, Poppies are the furthest thing from a weed as you can get. They aren’t similar in ANY way.
      Their Nutrient needs are different, as are their Temp. and Light Cycle needs, as well as their behavior in general.
      I HAVE answered questions about Poppy Leaves actually (with photos, etc), in a Comment response in THIS TUTORIAL HERE
      But will try to do into more depth regarding your concern when I get to your latest Comment in a bit.
      You’ll see in that same Tutorial Photos of a Poppy Plant with OVER 75 Blooms and Pods I grew once – no “dead-heading”, nothing special. They were the ‘Hungarian Blue’ Papaver Somniferum Poppy
      Hope this helps.


      • Brandon
        10/13/2016 @ 4:36 pm

        Thanks a lot for your response. I did make mention of the majority of google search results of leaf interpretation pertaining to weed growers although I do not and have not grown weed; but the fact remains that leaves of all plants manifest deficiencies through their leaves to some extent which I have been trying to apply here to my plants. The dead heading reference I found online was actually a horticulture article written by a Martha Stewart type forum author. It was pro ported by her to prevent the poppy from dying and to keep flowering, she did not mention trying to get lower pods to bloom but just to propagate the life of the plant and subsequent general blooming over time. My primary interest is not in seed production, but simply having flowers continually without having to start all over from the beginning every time it matures and would normally die. Your reminder, however, of the plant needing to reach maturity and dry up, in order to harvest seed for culinary uses for example, is appreciated though. I have begin thinking about harvesting seed to press poppy oil, and your clarification does give a good reminder there.

        I have had a wonderful experience getting your seeds to grow! It is mainly my end where the problems are creeping up on me. The furthest I have been able to get the plants are to the roughly softball size. Presently, the brand new growth leaves have leaf edge margins that are very light green and I have been experimenting with a lot to try and correct it. I have already killed off many progressing plants from over watering, over miracle growing, and leaving out in a not sufficiently draining pot and had the root rot plague you wisely have mentioned. I think mainly overwatering was to blame for the leaf edge darkening and turning to mush I mentioned earlier. Now I have a handle on this, the new problem is this stunted growth and light green/yellowing new growth issue. Miracle grow was not able to fix this, at least it seems, but I was also watering too heavily along with it so perhaps it is early root rot and over saturation that obscures what could have been a fix in miracle grow. I have thought recently it perhaps could be a sulfur deficiency so I have added epsom salts at 1TBS per gallon so observe the effects. Most leaf guides and charts online, weed/or general plants, do seem to indicate low sulfur as being a potential deficiency manifested in yellowing new leaf margins. As stated, miracle grow might have been able to address this if I wasn’t over watering along with it. I advise all others to take your lessons to heart and to hang on every word because I am finding these plants to be extremely finicky over conditions and super susceptible to everything wrong you could do! So basically (to everyone tuning in) listen to org bot on well draining containers and watering frequency!


        • OrganicalBotanicals
          10/18/2016 @ 9:37 pm

          I think you may be confusing the Somniferum Poppy (opium poppy), which is an Annual (meaning, it dies each year, and must start from seed each grow season) –

          With another Common Poppy (Papaver Orientele), which also grow Pods (without morphine/codeine Alkaloids), and are much more Common with average Gardeners such as “Martha Stewart Type Bloggers”.

          Unlike Somniferum Poppies, Orientele Poppies are a “Perennial”, which means they stay in the ground year round, and cycle through growth stages.

          So just to clarify: THE SOMNIFERUM POPPY MUST DIE EACH SEASON!!

          Also, it sounds like you’re “Finicking” with them too much.
          They are best left alone if you can help it. They can adapt, but they need time to do so- and they are sensitive bitches that won’t grow unless they feel safe and secure.
          Also, try reading a few of our other Poppy Tutorials in the Blog (many of which, used to be part of this Tutorial, but I had to break it up as it was getting too large and took too long to load) Hope this helps.



  22. Connor
    09/27/2016 @ 10:38 am

    I got a couple questions for you, what are your thoughts on Sincerely Nuts brand of seeds to grow?

    But more importantly, I live in New England and have a green house that is not being used. Do you think I could possibly grow poppies in it from now until winter? And how long does it take for them to finish? 2-3 months? How often should they be watered?

    Thank you my friend


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      09/30/2016 @ 5:13 pm

      Never heard of that brand. Plus, I don’t BUY Seeds. I grow them and sell them.
      Tell me about ’em.


  23. Subhut
    10/05/2016 @ 7:54 am

    Sorry, I meant…:

    I am having the problem you describe in your page “‘Why Poppy Stems so Floppy?”, but my plants always die’.


  24. ididit86
    10/09/2016 @ 6:57 pm

    Is there any way you could provide some tips on leaf diagnosis? Every time I try to look on the net for leaf signs of various messages the color and behavior of the leaves seem to be trying to indicate, I get directed to marijuanna growing sites. I would love a quick guide on “reading” poppy leaves for issues going on. There exists no resource, and it would be helpful if someone with a lot of experience growing them (such as yourself) could comment on different ways nutrient deficiencies manifest themselves, or problems that this plant may be susceptible to which can be observed and addressed by the horticulturalist. I have gotten many of the popppies I have grown to fairly advanced stages, but am observing I am overdoing something which has led many to this dark green leaf edge necrosis that I can’t seem to find out online what I have done wrong. If you could post some of your own observations of leaf behavior to help planters know what could be done to try to rectify the problem before the plant dies, this would be well appreciated. My guess is that I have provided the plant with too much nitrogen and caused this dark green leaf edge mush. I have responded by watering it like crazy to keep the plant from dying and hope this is the right response, but I have no reference to refer to on knowing what this means. Thanks so much!


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/16/2016 @ 6:11 pm

      Well, although Yellowing & Browning of the lower leaves is completely Natural during the later stages of growth, the problem you describe is something I have never personally experienced, but my best guess, based on the limited details you have provided, would be that the Leaf Edges are coming into Contact with something either on the ground (such as fertilizer, or manure) or while watering (such as liquid fertilizer.
      It’s very difficult to give Poppies “too much Nitrogen” (especially if using Organic Fertilizers, which are the only ones I suggest in this Tutorial) as Annual Poppies are actually a Nitrogen Dominant Plant throughout ALL Growth Stages.
      Unfortunately, people who know little about growing (Somniferum) poppies are mis-informing growers- even at Wikihow – which is, Ironically, an Article that WE were the Original Contributors of, but has since been diluted with several “Opinions”, not FACTS.
      Many times by others who are considered to have Authority based on their Blog’s Ranking, which provide broad ranged, Generic Tips. But Poppies, are NOT their Specialty.
      The Wikihow Article still features our Main Tutorial VIDEO
      We still try to help by Answering the Q&A’s above it though.
      But this is why people get confused, as the Article mentions using Manure, and Mulch – 2 things that have proved to RUIN Poppy Growth.
      As mulch covers that “extra” length of the Poppy Stem that MUST be left exposed, otherwise they won’t grow.
      But if you have any Pics, please upload them on our ‘Plant ID Page‘ so I can take a look.
      Remember to leave a Comment after uploading if you want to view the answer on our Blog.
      Otherwise, you’ll need to go to Dropbox and “Follow Comments” per your Pic.
      (If u have already uploaded your pics, please dis-regard this. I will be answering shortly)
      If there are other Comments you left that haven’t been approved yet, we’re working on them.


  25. Taylor Youngson
    10/21/2016 @ 2:59 am

    I am growing papaver somniferum poppies for the first time. I found organicalbotanicals today and I am so grateful to have discovered the page. The blog answered a couple of pressing questions that had started to worry me (especially “Floppy Poppy”). I do have a couple of other questions that I would greatly appreciate your help to answer.
    A little background: I live in Alabama. I designated a flower bed in my backyard for growing poppies. I ordered a variety of papaver somniferum seeds and cast them into the soil in August. August in AL is hot, however, the flower bed gets a decent combination of shade and sun light. For whatever reason, after a couple of weeks, I had several sprouts come up. Due to a few mistakes early on, several of those original sprouts died. I planted another round of seeds in late August and early September. These are the sprouts that I am working with now. It is October 21, 2016 and it has just recently cooled off in AL. It is around 65 degrees at night and 75 – 80 degrees during the afternoon. It will continue to cool off but our winters rarely see snow. My poppy sprouts seem very healthy but they seem to be developing extremely slowly. Because this is my first experience growing poppies, I don’t know if this is a normal growth rate or not. Compared to other flowers I have grown, they seem slow. That said, they are developing. I wish that they were in a better location to get more sunshine, but they are not in full shade or too dark (I hope).
    * Is there a way to help the poppies get the most out of the limited sunlight they’re receiving? Obviously, I do not want to transplant. They are gradually growing but I think part of the slow growth has to do with limited sunlight. Sometimes I worry that the plants seem “stuck” in the current growth stage. I think I am just being impatient though.
    My next question has to do with growing in the Fall. Everything that I’ve read says that by growing in the Fall the plant will bloom in the early Spring after the snow and frost are gone. However I doubt any of these references are working in Alabama. If it snows here, it will be in February or later. Because the poppies have sprouted and are developing lettuce like leaves…And because I do not foresee a snow or heavy frost anytime soon… And because it is realistic to expect prime conditions until around December, my hope is that the poppies will fully mature before the spring. Do you think this is possible? There is a great chance that I am missing something or that my hope is just wishful thinking.
    * If growing very slowly, how long will they take to bloom? Considering the southern conditions, is it at all possible that I may have flowers and seed pods at some point this winter? I was originally thinking it would be in late November – mid December but this was before I did research.
    * Is there anything I can do to speed up or encourage development?
    * If there is little or no chance that the poppies will mature this winter, what will happen to the poppies that are currently growing? Will I be able to hold out hope for early Spring? It seems like they could possibly die once January or February rolls around. Who knows? Last Christmas it was hot in AL.
    * I am really enjoying my poppy project and I would love to succeed. Even if my “sooner the better” expectations are unrealistic or impossible, eventual success will be just fine.
    * Any other advice for a first time southern grower?
    Please feel free to ask for more details, pictures, information or whatever else might help you to answer my questions and/or point me in a successful direction.
    Worst case scenario, I kill every poppies and only grow a failure tree… I will continue to try in the spring. I have learned a lot but only on my own and with zero information specific to Alabama poppies in the Fall.
    Thank you very much for taking the time to read this. I hope that you will respond. Any information or advice would be sincerely appreciated. If not, I understand. I’m just some internet dude rambling about an interest that by comparison I know very little about. Most people around the US have an extremely inaccurate impression of what the people in Alabama are like. While there are stereotypical rednecks, the city that I live in is up and coming and populated by well educated professionals, talented artists and could easily stand up to any culinary scene in the country. I have been all over the world and my city has some of the best restaurants around.
    With your help, we will have an accomplished organical botanical poppy enthusiast too.
    Doctor Tay


    • OrganicalBotanicals
      10/26/2016 @ 10:36 pm

      Hi thanks for the questions. I will answer in more detail in a bit, but the answer to your first question, I have answered in the Comment reply on our Video HERE


      • Taylor Youngson
        10/27/2016 @ 5:31 pm

        Thank you for the video and apologies for the previous wall of text. I got a little carried away upon finding someone who is knowledgeable and willing to help. I will try perlite this weekend.
        My garden has seen some progress this week. Although a seemingly slow progression, they poppy sprouts seem very healthy.
        I’m still curious about when to expect them to bloom. I estimate 2 more months of growing weather. I would be happy to send photos if that would help you with answering. I greatly appreciate your help and hope to hear back from you at your convenience .


  26. Angel
    12/15/2016 @ 10:30 am

    1. Once petals fall off is ready for harvest. Tt must be early in the morning or late in the day. So early or late its scored from bottom to top must be careful there 5 layers to the skin you only want to score thru the top membrane (I suggest using a- [COMMENT HAS BEEN TRUNCATED BY MODERATOR]


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